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New York, day 5: The Bigger Little Place

by Jeanne Horak on April 16, 2007 5 Comments in New York restaurants, USA

NYC-bigger-little-place

Leaving New York, never easy…
– REM

And just like that, our stay in New York drew to a close.  I have to say that what the visit mostly did was just whet our appetite for more… For now, though, we were packed up and ready to roll.  But first we still had the better part of a day to spend in the city and, fortified by yet another Starbucks pumpkin pie spice latte, we set off.

On our visit to Century 21 the previous evening we had been so overwhelmed that we ended up buying nothing, but we had vowed to come back with clearer heads in the morning and after a quick Starbucks stop for some restorative caffeine, that’s exactly where we headed.  This time we were more succesful, finding a gorgeous lambswool jersey for Nick and a glorious aquamarine pashmina for me, not to mention a host of touristy gifts (like my adorable little espresso-sized “I heart NY” mugs).  After stashing these in our cases back at the hotel, we hit the road and walked up through TriBeCa to Canal Street – I hadn’t yet bought a single T-shirt and I had heard that this was the place for cheap deals.  Boy – that’s no lie!  The entire length of Canal Street seems to be one long line of slightly grubby hole-in-the-wall shops selling T-shirts and cheap tourist tat.  All the sellers are open to negotiation, so it probably pays you to buy as much of what you want from one shop and negotiating a discount.

From there, we carried on strolling up through SoHo to one of the foodie shopping meccas20061018_deandeluca  that I had been dying to visit:  Dean & Deluca on the corner of Broadway and Prince.  Founded in 1977 by Joel Dean, Giorgio Deluca and Jack Ceglic, Dean & Deluca has become known as purveyors of fine foods, wines and kitchen goodies and it is a feast for the senses.  Sadly they have a no photos policy so no pictures, but let me assure you that this is a store that every foodie needs to visit once in their lives.  It’s just so, well… glossy and it stocks every imagineable delicacy from every corner of the earth.  I marvelled at an aisle full of every variety of dried chilli you care to name.  I tasted some Casina Rossa truffle salt that made me swoon.  I drooled over the wonderful sounding chocolates. And at the butcher’s counter I saw the most perfectly marbled piece of meat I have ever seen.  Even Nick was impressed 😉  If you love food, this is definitely a must for your New York itinerary. 

From there, weighed down with edible gifts, we took 20061018_spidermanthe subway back uptown to about 42nd street.  Our plan was to have a final lunch at the Carnegie Deli before heading off, so we made our way through midtown, pausing at to check out this gigantic inflatable Spiderman crawling down an atrium wall at the Sony Plaza, and then headed up towards Central Park to see Columbus Circle and the horse-drawn hansom cabs that depart from the Columbus Circle entrance to the park.  These beautifully maintained carriages and horses are such an iconic sight in the park and although they were originally designed as taxi cabs (the forerunenrs of today’s yellow gas guzzlers), these days they are used to take tourists and lovers on romantic rides through the park.  (Incidentally, the word cab is a shortened form of cabriolet which refers to the carriage design i.e. with20061018_building  a collapsible canopy – very much the same way that the term is today used to refer to cars!). 

But when the time came to locate the deli, it appears that our gremlins from the day before had still not left us.  I had written down the name while planning our itinerary but not the address, thinking we would probably not get there as we would already have been to Katz’s and the 2nd Ave Deli.  No problem – I could look up the address in one of the restaurant listings we had in our room, which I duly did and wrote down the street number and between which streets it was.  However…  something somewhere was wrong and when we got to the appropriate intersection, the street numbers were far too low.  So we walked in the appropriate direction for the street numbers to rise… and ended up with the street number I had written down which was distinctly NOT the Carnegie Deli.   And after our experiences the day before, I thought there was a good chance that it too had closed, although I have subsequently been reliably informed that it is still open.  With hindsight I think we should have walked in the opposite direction, but somehow this did not make sense at the time.  And the fact remains that it was lunchtime and I had again led us to a phantom restaurant, so I had one very annoyed husband on my hands!!  We debated what to do and in the end, to allay his fears that we would run terribly late and hit rush hour traffic when driving out of New York, I suggested we return to a small restaurant I had seen near our hotel. 

20061018_biggerlittleplaceThe Bigger Little Place is the successor to The Little Place and I had first noticed it when we walked past their mural commemorating the victims of 9/11.  Unbeknown to me, The Little Place was a much-loved family run Mexican deli and lunch counter at the time of 9/11 but was forced to close down in the aftermath of the attack.  In a real phoenix-rising-from-the-ashes tale, it reopened in April 2002 after ambitiously expanding into the premises next door and growing from a lunch counter with a few stools to a proper little restaurant with table service (although I believe nostalgic regulars still prefer to sit at the counter and watch the cooks produce their burritos).   It is situated on the corner of Warren Place and West Broadway in a classic lower Manhattan building with wooden floors and moulded ceilings.  But what sets it apart from its neighbours is the light fittings – both the ceiling and the wall light shades are made from adapted kitchen utensils (in the photo you can just make out the sieve chandeliers and grater wall lights)!  It makes for a very funky contrast with the historic 20061018_quesadillas architecture and is quite charming. There was also a good proprtion of Hispanic customers, which we took to be a tacit recommendation and found ourselves a table.  The menu is solidly homespun Mexican with all the usual crowd-pleasing favourites like quesadillas and burritos, wth a daily special for each day of the week.  The service was friendly and fast and all was well with the world.  Nick attacked his burrito with such speed and vigour that I could not get a picture of it, but here for your perusal is my cheese and spinach quesadilla which was fresh and delicious – especially the salsa with black beans.  If you’re craving a fix of Mexican food in lower Manhattan, this is a great place for an excellent (and cheap!) Mexican lunch.

From here we dashed back to the hotel and had a discussion about how to get to La Guardia airport where we had to pick up our rental car.  I figured we could take the subway to about Penn Station and then get a cab as a little treat to ourselves.  Nick, on the other hand, reasoned that we had subway passes, why not use them as far as we could.  His plan was to take the subway to 125th street and hail a cab there.  I was a little dubious about this and mentioned that there might not be as many cabs up there as there were in midtown but Nick was not to be deterred.  So I took comfort in the fact that there is also a bus that leaves from 125th Street bound for La Guardia and we were unlikely to get totally stuck.  So we headed for the subway and caught a fast train all the way uptown to 125th Street.  Where we alighted.  To find that this is in fact Harlem.  And that there are very few cabs that venture this far up the island.  And that two white kids with suitcases could not be more conspicuous if they tried!!  Some crazy woman was screaming expletives down her phone at an unseen enemy, another guy with his life’s possessions in a shopping trolley careered wild-eyed past us, but Nick went to stand on tippy toes at the edge of the pavement to look for a (non-existent) cab.  I, on the other hand, had fully activated my “let’s get out of here” thinking cap and had spotted the La Guardia bus across the road.  I think it took all of about 20 seconds for me to persuade Nick that this was definitely the way forward and that a speedy exit from the neighbourhood was probably not a bad idea in terms of self-preservation!

 

Once on the bus, things looked up.  We had to pick up the car at 15h30 and according to the driver’s estimate we would get there on time, provided the traffic was OK (it was).  And in an even bigger bonus, the bus in fact stopped right outside the Alamo car rental depot on its was to La Guardia, so we walked into the depot at 15h30 on the nose, confident that we would get our car and be on our way before rush hour traffic.  Ha ha.  What we had NOT counted on was the unbelievable inefficiency of the staff at that particular branch of Alamo.  The guy handling our query moved and talked as if he were underwater – very slowly! After perusing his screen, he looked puzzled and sarted asking us stuff like “so you have actually booked a car?”  and “you mean you booked this in London England?”. Then he asked if we were sure this was the correct pick-up time, and every time I pointed out my printed reservation confirmation to him, he waved that aside as if it was a product of my fertile imagination.  Great.  But of course you stay polite because if this is the service you get when the going is good, presumably you don’t want to see the service when he’s offended!! And we really wanted to be out of there before the traffic got bad.  After half an hour of this, he eventually called over a colleague and I slowly got the picture that although they could find my car on the reservation system, he could not bring up a per day dollar rate.  And the more I told him that I had pre-paid in full (as per my voucher!!) the more he ignored me and the two of them went into a long orgy of random hitting of keys.  Eventually his colleague conceded that as I had already paid, it was unlikely to bring down the company if I was allowed to take the car without a per-day rate popping up on their screen.  And it only took 45 short minutes to convince them!  Give me strength.  So we set off almost an hour after we had arrived there, into the worsening traffic to try and find our way to Connecticut.  As you can imagine, tempers were frayed and we did drive around in circles until N decided to follow his nose to the Triboro bridge.  Oddly, there was some sort of security checkpoint ahead and so N rolled down the window to ask if this was the way to the Triboro Bridge.  I will never forget the look of disbelief the lady in uniform gave us as she said “no sir, this here is the road to Rikers Island.  As in the prison.  You’ll be wanting to turn back!”   After the initial seconds of stunned silence, even we had to laugh and luckily World War Three was averted 😉

We did eventually find the bridge and made our way surprisingly quickly to Westport, Connecticut, marvelling all the way at the trees that just seemed to get redder the further away we got form New York. Our route took us through Saugatuck and along a very beautiful river where we had picture postcard view of lone scullers against a backdrop of autumn colours – truly gorgeous. I must admit that I knew very little about Westport before we arrived, other than that our friends Larry and Meredith live there. So you can imagine my very pleasant surprise when we drove in past stores like Trader Joe’s and Williams Sonoma. Clearly this was my kinda town 😉 It all became clear later on when Larry told us that this is where Martha Stewart lives… Well, I can report that Martha has great taste because I suspect you would struggle to find many more quintessentially picture-perfect New England towns to call home – from the weatherboard houses in muted pastel shades to the rolling lawns strewn with kids’ toys and tricycles to the trees ablaze with every shade of orange and red. And although I’m sure it’s home to some great restaurants, we didn’t find out because Larry (who worked as a chef in his youth) had rustled up some steaks for us, before we snuggled up in bed in the perfect quiet of a New England autumn night.

Dean & Deluca
560 Broadway (Prince Street)
New York, NY 10012

Tel: 212 226 6800

The Bigger Little Place
73 West Broadway
New York, NY 10012
Tel: 212-528-3175

Related posts:

New York, Day 4:  Angelica Kitchen and John’s of Bleecker Street

New York, Day 3: The Empire State Building and beyond

New York, Day 2:  Luzzo’s and the quest for the perfect pizza

New York, Day 2:  Lady Liberty and Katz’s Deli

New York, Day 1:  Brooklyn Bridge and Bubby’s Pie Company

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  1. Indressa says

    April 17, 2007 at 6:39 pm

    An excellent piece of travel writing. You should be doing this for a living, Jeanne! Never been to NY myself, but it’s on our list!! And Dean & Deluca would be one of my main reasons for going there.

    Reply
  2. Chris says

    April 18, 2007 at 2:51 am

    Wow – what a spectacular post. I used to live in NYC ions ago, and I go a couple of times a year since my mom lives on the upper west side. But, I think because I am so familiar, and my trips are so quick, I forget how great it is….Now I want to fly up! Thanks!

    Reply
  3. Deborah Dowd says

    April 18, 2007 at 11:57 am

    One of the best things about blogging and blog-surfing is the opportunity to go wherever my fellow bloggers are travelling. Thanks for this great piece on New York!

    Reply
  4. Freya says

    April 19, 2007 at 11:22 am

    I have so enjoyed reading your guide to eating and buying in New York! So evocative and wonderful photography!

    Reply
  5. Jeanne says

    April 19, 2007 at 6:01 pm

    Hi Indressa
    Oh, there are a hundred foodie reasons to visit NYC! And we only scratched the surface… You definitely must make a plan to visit, especially now with the Dollar being so weak against the Pound 🙂 And thanks for the lovely compliment – I’m glad you liked it!
    Hi Chris
    Wow – now that’s quite a compliment: giving an ex-New Yorker a new perspective on his city!! Thanks & I’m glad you enjoyed it. Hope you get to go again soon 🙂
    Hi Deborah
    You’re so right – I love reading other bloggers’ accounts of their travels. And the best thing is with food bloggers, you *know* they’ll have some good foodie tips for you… Glad you enjoyed my take on NYC 🙂
    Hi Freya
    I’m so glad you enjoyed it – and flattered that you liked the photos! Now I have to push on and finish with an account of our few days in New England…

    Reply
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Jeanne | Stylish food & travel


Are you a cook... or a baker?
I fall firmly into

Are you a cook... or a baker? 
I fall firmly into the "cook" category. Baking is too precise, too fiddly - and best left to those with an affinity for it, I always say! But every now and then, only a cake will do. Say, for example... when you celebrate your blog's SIXTEENTH birthday!! 🎉🍾 Yes, last month Cooksister.com turned sweet sixteen, and to celebrate I baked this sticky spiced plum upside down cake. It's a very forgiving recipe and it's worth every single calorie 😁. Click on the link in my profile to see the recipe or save this post so you can find it later: https://www.cooksister.com/2020/06/sticky-spiced-plum-upside-down-cake.html

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappoint
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

Anybody else got Lockdown Itchy Feet Syndrome...?? If it isn't an official disorder,  it certainly should be!

I have always been a dreamer, a planner, an explorer. Few things excite me more than stepping onto the soil of a country I have not visited before. When I am going through tough personal times, my go-to self-help therapy has always been to arrange a trip - to throw off the metaphorical bow lines and sail away to a new adventure. 
But then... Corona 😞  I can honestly say that I am enjoying working from home; enjoying having the time to run every day; enjoying cooking proper meals; enjoying my own company; enjoying the lack of FOMO. But OH MAN, I miss travel. 
This image was taken 2 years ago in St George's, Grenada - my first visit to the Caribbean but  certainly not my last. This photo has me dreaming of the day I can throw off those bow lines and travel again... How are you dealing with the lack of travel during this time?

Am I the only one feeling faintly sad at all the S
Am I the only one feeling faintly sad at all the Spring bulbs that were planted last year that have been flowering in parks and public gardens with nobody (or fewer people, anyway...) around to admire them? Spare a thought for the gardeners at Holland's famous Keukenhof who planted SEVEN MILLION bulbs last winter in preparation for the garden's annual 2-month opening... but because of Covid-19 Keukenhof did not open at all in 2020. 
But the good news is that for the first time in its history, Keukenhof was virtually open this year, meaning you can enjoy the best of the Spring flowers virtually, from the comfort of your armchair.  Keukenhof posted an amazing series of videos to their YouTube channel featuring magnificent 360 degree tours of the 2020 flowering bulbs; a run-down of the best photo spots; talks by various Keukenhof gardeners; and even a visit from Spongebob Squarepants!  You can check out their YouTube channel here https://bit.ly/2WWkahW. Or you can visit my blog  https://bit.ly/2zMgrLL  to see more of my Keukenhof images like this one of a river of tulips from when I visited a few years ago.

Have you visited Keukenhof?  What were your favourite Spring flowers? ⚘⚘⚘

When people tell me they don't like Brussels spro
When  people tell me they don't like Brussels sprouts, my inner voice always cries out the same response: oh honey, you're just doing it wrong! Sesame ginger sprouts are nutty, zingy and delicious - the opposite of the overcooked grey stinky sprouts of your youth, and so easy to make! 🔖 Remember to save this post so you can make the recipe later! The recipe is also on my blog - click the live link in my profile. 
For 4 people you need:
500 g Brussels sprouts, trimmed, halved and cooked (I roast mine in a hot oven)
1 x 2cm piece of ginger cut into fine matchsticks
2 Tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
1 Tbsp canola oil
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
Salt & pepper 
Heat the oil in a non-stick pan and fry the ginger till fragrant. Add the sprouts, mix well and heat through. Remove from heat, add the sesame oil, season and serve topped with toasted sesame seeds.

Did you know that 6 February is Waitangi Day, the
Did you know that 6 February is Waitangi Day, the national day of New Zealand? .

I am marking the occasion with this photo was taken just over 3 years ago on the shores of beautiful Lake Pukaki on the South Island, looking across at Mt Aoraki.  I loved my visit and planned the trip completely independently – here are some tips for anybody thinking of visiting the South Island. .
🔖Click “save” to bookmark these tips for later! ➡️ 1) Take more time than you think you need. In a week you will barely scratch the surface of the South Island - I would say 2 weeks is a comfortable amount of time. ➡️ 2) Don’t assume that summer means hot weather! Even in December (the height of summer) temperatures peak at about 21C in Christchurch. Pack layers. ➡️ 3) Do spend time in Queenstown. It is stunning and one of my favourite places I have ever visited – great for hiking in summer, skiing in winter, sailing on the lake, adventure sports and a base for many surrounding natural attractions. ➡️ 4) Take day trips from Queenstown to Milford Sound and the Franz Josef glacier (but be aware that the weather is often not great). ➡️ 5) Take a road trip! The roads are excellent and generally empty – and it means you get to pose in places like the shore of Lake Pukaki 😊 .
Have you visited New Zealand’s South Island?  Would you like to?  Let me know in the comments!

"Don't just stand there, let's get to it: strike a
"Don't just stand there, let's get to it: strike a pose there's nothing to it!" (Madonna)

Nicole Kidman's is both hands on hips. Meryl Streep's is only left hand on hip. Victoria Beckham's is right hip out, left foot forward (and no smile!). Mine started as a joke many years ago - the earliest evidence I have is from 2005 😎 Do YOU have a signature pose? Tell me in the comments or DM me a pic!

This particular pose was struck on the @chateaulhospitalet estate in the Languedoc, looking out over @gerardbertrandwines vineyards all the way to the Mediterranean. You can read all about my stay there now on the blog - click on the live link in my profile

Even if you are not a French speaker as such, you
Even if you are not a French speaker as such, you may be surprised by the number of French words you already know: rendezvous, entrepreneur, souvenir and ricochet need no introduction. All have been adopted into English wholesale, with their original French meaning and spelling. Perhaps they should apply for settled status post-Brexit... But sometimes a word’s literal translation in French bears no resemblance to what the word has come to mean, such as canape. Although we know the word as meaning a small piece of pastry or bread with a savoury topping served at drinks receptions, the literal translation is a decorative antique sofa. When a clever chef first came up with the idea, the topping was thought to sit on the bread or pastry like a person reclining on a sofa, and the snacks came to be known half-jokingly as canapes. Fact! 
I enjoyed these very elegant canapes (LOVED the lacy little potato lattices!) with Code Rouge sparkling wine before a jazz dinner at Gerard Bertrand’s flagship wine estate Chateau L’Hospitalet in the Languedoc.  The dinner was as  spectacular as the canapes and you can read all about it on my blog now – click the live link in my profile above.

The Christmas decorations may be long gone, but Ol
The Christmas decorations may be long gone, but Old Spitalfields Market where this photo was taken is very much open and is one of my favourite London markets. Here are my top tips for visiting Old Spitalfields:

1.  The closest station is Liverpool Street which is only a 5 minute walk from the market.
2. It's open daily, with over a hundred stalls, but on Wednesday the focus is on fashion & on Thursday the focus is on antiques & vintage.
3. The busiest day is Sunday - get there early to beat the crowds!
4. Make sure you sample some of the excellent street food on offer - I love the 8-hour pulled pork bagels from Dirty Bagel, topped with cheese melted by blowtorch in front of your eyes; or the traditional raclette at Abondance.
5. Don't forget to check out the amazing Shoreditch street art in the area around the market, either on a tour or self-guided walk.
6. The Truman Brewery just east of Spitalfields hosts a massive collection of vintage clothes stalls, and more street food - don't miss it!

Thanks @meetakwolff for the 📸

"You're off to Great Places! Today is your day! Yo
"You're off to Great Places! Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting so... get on your way!" (Dr Seuss)

How are you starting the new decade? Staring at the mountains ahead, worrying about how hard they will be to climb and whether your shoes will be comfortable and whether it is going to rain along the way? Or striding confidently towards the mountains ahead, looking forward to the fresh air filling your lungs and the sense of purpose as your legs carry you ever higher, and relishing the prospect of an amazing view from the top?

There is no finer metaphor for life than a walk in the mountains and I have already made my choice as to how I plan to tackle the mountains of 2020. What's your choice? 
Wishing you all a very happy new year and amazing views from the top of every personal and professional mountain that you climb!

This particular mountain is in the Austrian Alps where I hiked last summer. Thanks to @thepassionatecook for the 📸!


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Jeanne Horak is a freelance food and travel writer; recipe developer and photographer. South African by birth and Londoner by choice, Jeanne has been writing about food and travel on Cooksister since 2004. She is a popular speaker on food photography and writing has also contributed articles, recipes and photos to a number of online and print publications. Jeanne has also worked with a number of destination marketers to promote their city or region. Please get in touch to work with her Read More…

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