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You are here: Home / Book reviews / Aubergine dengaku with miso and mozzarella from “Nikkei Cuisine”

Aubergine dengaku with miso and mozzarella from “Nikkei Cuisine”

by Jeanne Horak on April 16, 2016 29 Comments in Book reviews, Gluten-free, Vegetable side dishes, Vegetarian

Miso-Aubergine- TItle © J Horak-Druiff 2016

London is probably one of the easiest cities in the world in which to be an expat. I can guarantee you that if you do a snap survey on any given Tube carriage, well over half the people on it will have been born outside London – and many outside the UK.  It’s hard to imagine a city that can currently rival it as a melting pot of cultures, languages and (most importantly!) cuisines. In my hometown in South Africa, I do believe that there was nowhere serving sushi until the early 2000s and things like pho and ramen bars have still not arrived there in any meaningful way.  So you can imagine how my mind was blown when I arrived in London and started sampling all the delights that the world has to offer, in one city.  I dabbled in dim sum; frolicked in pho; delighted in dosas; and succumbed to ceviche. And then, all those years ago, I paid a visit to Nobu and discovered food for which I had no name.  It defied any sort of national classification, yet it made my palate sing with surprise and delight.  I had no idea then (along with the rest of London) that I was experiencing my first taste of Nikkei cuisine.

When people first hear about Nikkei cuisine, it is all too easily dismissed as just another fusion food fad: I know this was my reaction the first time somebody mentioned the idea of Japanese-Peruvian or Japanese-Brazilian food to me. But this sort of oversimplification  does the cuisine’s rich cultural heritage a disservice. You see, this is no faddish mingling of two disparate cuisines purely for effect but rather a fascinating and authentic hybrid cuisine that developed over decades and out of necessity. Nikkei cuisine is most commonly described as the food cooked by  Japanese emigrants and their descendants in Peru, Brazil and Argentina from the late 19th century onwards, and the word Nikkei originally meant a Japanese person born outside Japan.  You may be surprised to learn that the largest Japanese population outside of Japan resides in Brazil, and over the years the Japanese diaspora there has adapted the recipes brought from home (or learnt from parents) to the techniques and ingredients locally available in South America.  The result is a cuisine that contains familiar elements of like sushi and tempura but is rich in unexpected and exotic combinations of flavor and texture, plus it is for the most part healthy. So it is hardly surprising that Nikkei is hot news these days in London, with a number of popular restaurants like Chotto Matte, SushiSamba, Ceviche and UNI serving food that is heavily influenced by Nikkei cuisine.

 

Miso-AUbergine-Ingredients

 

There are few better ways to experience authentic Nikkei than a visit to my friend Luiz Hara’s London Foodie Supperclub events. Luiz himself is of Japanese-Italian heritage and grew up in Sao Paolo, Brazil, immersed in Nikkei culture and cuisine from a young age. I can think of few better people to introduce you to this food and so I was thrilled to hear that he has published a cookbook on the subject, Nikkei Cuisine – the first Nikkei cookbook published outside Japan or South America. It’s a substantial tome at 256 pages and with over 100 recipes, almost all illustrated with beautiful full-colour full-page photographs illustrating Luiz’s gorgeous plating. I love that Luiz has included a section at the beginning about the history of Japanese people in South America and the story of how Nikkei cuisine developed. There are separate mini-sections dealing with some of the cuisine’s foundation techniques including how to make dashi stock; perfect tempura technique; and sauces/dressing. The recipes run the full gamut from sushi and tempura to ceviches and tiraditos with some mouth-watering dishes that defy classification like boneless short rib sliders with kimchi mayo; or Oreo and matcha cheesecake. There are also some dishes that regulars at Luiz’s supperclub might recognize such as tuna tataki with truffle ponzu; or salmon and passion fruit tiradito. Although the finished dishes look and taste appropriately cheffy, Luiz breaks them down into manageable steps that most home chefs would be comfortable trying. The only thing I would say is that the recipes in this book are generally not the type of dishes that you can decide to make at short notice with store-cupboard ingredients that you have on hand (unless your store cupboards are a lot more adventurous than mine). Many items like ponzu, yuzu, shimeji mushrooms and the like will require some advance planning and shopping (or a very handily located local Oriental supermarket!). But for the uninitiated, Luiz has helpfully included an index explaining some of the more obscure ingredients as well as a list of suppliers, mostly London-based. If you are looking for something a little different to add to your cookbook shelf that will broaden your culinary horizons a bit, this is the book for you.  Nikkei Cuisine is now available via Amazon and good retailers (RRP £19.99).

 

Nikkei-Cuisine

 

So what does one cook when presented with such an amazing range of choices? After paging repeatedly through the book and lusting after almost every recipe, I decided to start with something fairly simple which I have had at one of Luiz’s supperclubs: aubergines with dengaku miso and mozzarella. Miso-glazed aubergine recipes are fairly ubiquitous on the Web – but I was intrigued by the addition of mild mozzarella cheese and I knew I’d loved it when I had it at the supperclub.  It’s also one of the fe recipes in the book that required no grocery shopping for me as I always have sesame seeds, oil, miso paste and mirin on hand.  The mozzarella is not the artisan kind – it is the ready-grated stuff that I’d usually walk right past in the supermarket – it’s needed for its meltiness and lack of powerful flavour in this recipe so don’t be tempted to go too upmarket! A couple of things to note: my sous chef (!) cut the stems off the aubergines before I could stop them. but do try to leave them on as they help the aubergine to keep its shape when cooked. Also, do’t score the flesh too deeply – just under a centimetre is deep enough to help the flesh cook and the miso to penetrate. Lastly, I found the dengaku miso a little to sweet for my taste so I have halved the sugar content and I used one rather than 2 tablespoons of water because my miso was more the consistency of soy sauce than a spreadable paste. The finished dish is a cheesy, umami feast – and it’s gluten-free, vegetarian and (cheese aside!) relatively healthy.  I can’t wait to explore this and this cuisine book further!

 

Miso-Aubergine-Final

 

If you love aubergines, check out these aubergine recipes from other bloggers:

  • My very easy garlicky roasted aubergine dip
  • David’s eggplant caviar 
  • Kellie’s eggplant bacon
  • Sam’s roasted aubergine wedges with hummus 
  • Sarah’s aubergine chocolate cake
  • Michelle’s brinjal bhaji
  • Meeta’s roasted aubergine salad with saffron yoghurt, pine nuts and pomegranate

 

4.5 from 8 reviews
Aubergine with dengaku miso and mozzarella
 
Print
Prep time
10 mins
Cook time
25 mins
Total time
35 mins
 
This deceptively simple dish of miso-glazed aubergine topped with melted mozzarella and sesame seeds is packed with deep umami flavours - perfect for a side dish or light vegetarian main.
Author: Jeanne Horak-Druiff
Recipe type: Vegetable side
Cuisine: Nikkei
Serves: 2
Ingredients
  • 2 medium aubergines/eggplants/brinjals
  • 4 Tbs vegetable oil (I used rapeseed)
  • 4 Tbs sesame oil
  • 100g ready grated mozzarella
  • 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds to garnish
  • FOR THE DENGAKU MISO PASTE:
  • 4 Tbsp brown miso paste
  • 4 Tbsp mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)
  • 1 Tbsp water
  • 1 Tbsp sugar
Instructions
  1. First, prepare the dengaku miso paste by mixing all the ingredients in a small saucepan and warming through until the sugar has dissolved. Stir well to combine and then set aside. The sauce can be made in advance and can keep for a couple of weeks in an airtight container in the fridge.
  2. Wash and dry the aubergines, then slice them exactly in half, lengthways, preferably without removing the stem as this helps to hold the cooked aubergine together. Use a sharp knife to score a diamond pattern in the cut flesh of the aubergines, about 1cm deep, but do not pierce the skin.
  3. Pre-heat the oven to 180C.
  4. Heat the oils in a large frying pan or skillet (with a lid) until smoking hot, then lower the temperature to medium and immediately place the halved aubergines in the pan, cut side down. Cover with the lid and fry for about 5 minutes. Turn the aubergines over using tongs or an egg-lifter and place them back in the pan skin side down. Cover with the lid and allow to fry for a further 10 minutes. The aubergine halves will by now be very soft so use the egg-lifter to transfer them carefully, skin-side down, to a roasting tray.
  5. Apply a thin layer of the dengaku miso paste to the cut side of the aubergine, using a knife or the back of a teaspoon. Cover each aubergine half in mozzarella cheese and place in the oven for 5 minutes to re-heat. After 5 minutes, turn up the grill to high and grill until the cheese is completely melted and browning at the edges.
  6. Carefully remove each aubergine half from the roasting dish using an egg lifter, plate and serve immediately, sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds.
Wordpress Recipe Plugin by EasyRecipe
3.5.3208

 

DISCLOSURE:  I received a complimentary copy of this book for review purposes but received no further remuneration to write this post.  I was not expected to write a positive review – all views are my own and I retain full editorial control.

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  1. Meeta says

    April 16, 2016 at 11:05 am

    I think you made a great choice to feature this recipe. I love fusion food probably because that is the way I have been brought up. Although Japanese-Peruvian / Brazilian at first does sound far fetched I see the great potential. Just adore the rich flavors here! xo

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      April 18, 2016 at 12:35 pm

      You would love this book Meeta – so many more recipes that you’d love and packed with colour and fresh flavours!

      Reply
  2. Rosa says

    April 17, 2016 at 10:09 am

    This book sounds really interesting! Will add it to my list of cookbooks to buy/check out.

    An eggplant recipe I’ll have to try as soon as possible.

    Cheers,

    Rosa

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      April 18, 2016 at 12:34 pm

      Oh yes, I do hope you get hold of the book Rosa! It’s not only beautiful but full of interesting info and unique recipes 🙂

      Reply
  3. Herschelian says

    April 17, 2016 at 12:43 pm

    That is one of the most enticing recipes I’ve read for ages – and I have/can get all the ingredients here in Beijing -woo hoo!
    I have the Beijing Bookclub dinner at my place in 10 days time. We are a very international bunch – 3 Brits, 1 Sikh, 2 Chinese, 2 Canadians and 1 Saffer (me). Because of that we always have a vegetarian meal – the others are wonderful cooks, so I have to really work at finding something new and delicious, this recipe hits the spot!

    Thanks Jeanne, and thanks to Luiz Hara – I’ve put his book on my Amazon birthday wishlist!

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      April 18, 2016 at 12:32 pm

      Oh what a perfect opportunity to give this dish a try! It’s also going to be my go to recipe for vegetarian main courses from now on 🙂 Lucky you – in Beijing I imagine all of the ingredients in this book should be a breeze! Hope you get the book for your birthday 🙂

      Reply
  4. Colleen says

    April 18, 2016 at 7:29 am

    This sounds like a wonderfully interesting book and I have not had the privilege to partake of Nikkei food before! The cheese is healthy…..all the way! I absolutely love the look and sound of this recipe and will definitely give it a go…will adapt it very easily to my lifestyle. But other than that this dish looks like it has my name all over it. I could dive in and lick that plate. Stunningly written and informative post as ever. It has been such a long time since I visited. Just had to make time for this one today while my cakes are baking and my soup is souping 😉 Hugs to you Jeanne xx

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      April 18, 2016 at 12:31 pm

      Hah yes – I suspect it may take some time before Nikkei goes mainstream in South AFrica… 😉 Although Nobu at the O&O is a pretty good introduction! Hope you get to try a Banting version as it is a quick but very satisfying dish 🙂

      Reply
      • Colleen says

        April 18, 2016 at 1:50 pm

        Ah yes, have been privileged enough to have eaten at Nobu a couple of times in the past….must try it again 😉 I will definitely be making this! xx

        Reply
  5. [email protected] says

    April 18, 2016 at 9:54 am

    Lordy lordy this looks good, Jeanne. I have had an excellent meal at Chotto Matte (I know it gets mixed reviews but we loved it and the service) and I left wanting more, despite being very full. It seems to marry the best of both traditions. Thanks for this interesting recipe, although my own nasu dengaku is looking quite dull in comparison!

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      April 18, 2016 at 12:29 pm

      Thank you!! I have yet to go to Chotto Matte and I know what you mean – it does have mixed reviews, but having met the chef Jordan Sclare and tried his food at Bouillabaisse, I am sure I would love it 🙂

      Reply
  6. [email protected] says

    April 18, 2016 at 10:04 am

    Sounds wonderfully simple and delicious Jeanne.
    A must make for aubergine/eggplant lovers like me ;))

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      April 18, 2016 at 12:28 pm

      It really did not take much time and the results were really delicious! I am already thinking of variations… like a “pizza aubergine” 🙂

      Reply
  7. Birgitta Laigar says

    April 18, 2016 at 10:30 am

    I really like baked eggplant. At my job the chef makes one with ricotta cheese and caramelized onions which is really good!

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      April 18, 2016 at 12:27 pm

      Oh I am loving the idea of ricotta and caramelised onions! I also loved the idea of steam-frying the aubergines and then finishing them off in the oven – definitely going to experiment with other toppings!

      Reply
  8. Becca @ Amuse Your Bouche says

    April 18, 2016 at 11:19 am

    Oh my gosh. This looks unbelievable – I can never resist a golden cheesy crust! I would never have thought of using miso for something like this.

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      April 18, 2016 at 12:26 pm

      I know, right?? The first time I ate it at Luiz’s house was a revelation! And I agree…. mmmmmmm, cheeeese! 😉

      Reply
  9. Katie Bryson says

    April 18, 2016 at 12:14 pm

    Wow how exciting to read about this cuisine… and this recipe looks and sounds fantastic! I must try and get hold of this book.

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      April 18, 2016 at 12:26 pm

      It was a revelation to me – such amazing flavour combinations! I’d definitely recommend the book – the recipes are all manageable but with v impressive results 🙂

      Reply
  10. Hannah Jade says

    April 18, 2016 at 1:03 pm

    The cheese to everything else ratio in this is perfect!

    Reply
  11. Kate @ VeggieDesserts says

    April 18, 2016 at 3:10 pm

    I really miss the international supermarkets and restaurants in London. This aubergine sounds wonderful with miso and lovely flavours, and the sesame seeds sound perfect on top. Yum!

    Reply
  12. [email protected] of cinnamon says

    April 19, 2016 at 11:02 am

    This cheesy Aubergine looks delicious Jeanne, great as a vegetarian option. Thanks for sharing. I am excited to be on the SA Food Bloggers Group.

    Reply
  13. Tandy | Lavender and Lime says

    April 19, 2016 at 11:05 am

    Can you imagine my transition from Johannesburg to Gordons Bay where nothing I considered a normal ingredient could be found! Just read your comment request: *sends cheese*

    Reply
  14. Spanish HomeMade PAELLA says

    April 19, 2016 at 4:54 pm

    Love this dish! And love that you use sticks! We have event thought of using them sometimes for one of our paella catering parties.. hehe

    Thanks a lot! I’ll try it your way!

    Reply
  15. Aneeqah says

    April 21, 2016 at 11:38 am

    I adore aubergines. I need to add this to my recipe book wishlist. This dish looks absolutely amazing.

    Reply
  16. Sam Taylor says

    April 22, 2016 at 12:00 pm

    I love aubergines but I am pretty much the only one around here, so never really buy them. This recipe is a great temptation, also I think because I love new cook books and making recipes the names of which I cannot pronounce.

    Reply
  17. Sarah, Maison Cupcake says

    April 29, 2016 at 10:27 am

    I badly want to try this – looks and sounds amazing! Fabulous to see the lovely Luiz doing so well 🙂

    Reply
  18. Teresa says

    May 11, 2016 at 1:25 pm

    This looks so delicious! I rarely buy aubergines as my husband is not a fan, but even he might be tempted by this recipe.

    Reply
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Jeanne Horak is a freelance food and travel writer; recipe developer and photographer. South African by birth and Londoner by choice, Jeanne has been writing about food and travel on Cooksister since 2004. She is a popular speaker on food photography and writing has also contributed articles, recipes and photos to a number of online and print publications. Jeanne has also worked with a number of destination marketers to promote their city or region. Please get in touch to work with her Read More…

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