There are many things that I wanted to say when I was greeted at the door of the Sofitel St James by a shiny, six foot tall asparagus spear with a shiny purple top. Most of them are obviously not to be repeated on a family blog, but anyone that knows me can use their imagination! And this was before I had even had a sip of wine… But no, I was not hallucinating – the asparagus spear had some friends waiting inside – equally shiny chillies, some super-sensuous peppers, a giant cherry, and even a sparkly durian were scattered throughout the hotel lobby, bar and dining room.
This somewhat surreal spectacle is thanks to renowned Swiss-French artist Patrick Laroche who is exhibiting his vegetable sculptures at the hotel until 31 October. Laroche says he was inspired to start making his vegetable sculptures six years ago after he was asked to make vegetable-shaped candleholders for a restaurant in Paris. Having always been fascinated by gastronomy, he set about creating a collection of large sculptures of vegetables. All the sculptures are made either in bronze, or using a polyresin which is then varnished to create a super-glossy metallic finish. My favourites were the peppers – something about the asymmetrical, rounded form lends itself perfectly to Laroche’s shiny medium – and the peas popping out of their pods. But I have to admit that the red chillies, the cherry and that impressive asparagus were also hot favourites!
To tie in with the exhibition, the hotel’s restaurant and bar, The Balcon, has also created a number of special culinary dishes and cocktails using vegetables, and it was this menu that I was there to sample. I have visited The Balcon before but always forget what a lovely room it is, with its wall-mounted chandeliers and high ceilings. Once we were settled into our corner table, the super-friendly waiters brought over the menu and explained which dishes were created for the exhibition. Determined to try all of them, my companion Ailbhe started with the sweet pea sliders in cornbread madeleines with shallot jam and mint sauce (£5,00) while I chose the braised eggs with spicy chorizo,smoked aubergine and tomato cocotte (£5,00). Not only did the sliders make a very pretty starter, they were also ridiculously delicious – the peas had been made into little falafels sandwiched between the halves of the cornbread madeleines, and the combined effect of the coriander-spiced falafel, the crunchy madeleine and the sweet jam was just heavenly. We both agreed that my generous bowl of tomato cocotte topped with a perfect runny-yolked egg would make the world’s best breakfast – it’s lightly spiced and as comforting as a hug in a bowl, spiked with cubes of chorizo.
For her main course, Ailbhe could not resist the cassoulet (£21,00) (one of a number of French classics on the menu) while I chose another of the menu items created especially for the exhibition: stuffed cabbage with Scottish pheasant and foie gras, sautéed girolles, parsnip puree (£21,00). The cassoulet was served topped with a confit duck leg and with a pasty on the side which we were told contained gesiers – a duck gizzard pasty. Ailbhe demolished the pasty but said the cassoulet was average, with the duck leg being not quite tender enough and the sausages in the cassoulet lacking some oomph – but a perfectly pleasant rendition nonetheless. I was similarly underwhelmed by my main, which consisted of a slice of cabbage and pheasant layered terrine plus some extra pheasant meat, served on parsnip puree with sauteed girolles and broad beans. I loved the puree, the girolles and the broad beans, but found the terrine to be somewhat bland with only the tiniest morsel of foie gras (I could literally only taste it in one mouthful). I also found the extra bit of pheasant to be rather dry and in need of more gravy – but the did get bonus points for pretty plating.
The desserts, happily, represented a return to the form. Ailbhe chose the dessert created for the exhibition: a parsnip and maple syrup cake, with clotted cream ice cream (£5.00). This consisted of thin layers of parsnip cake redolent with cinnamony Autumnal spices, sandwiched with a ganache and served in a pool of maple syrup. I found the dish rather sweet for my taste (although the ice-cream balanced the sweetness) but it was a hit with Ailbhe and Andrew (who had joined us for post-dinner drinks). But I preferred the dessert that I chose: a blackberry financier with green apple sorbet and raspberry coulis (£5,00). This dish had everything a dessert should have: the warmth of the financier contrasting with the cold of the sorbet; the slight crunch of the financier’s exterior contrasting with its soft interior; and its sweetness contrasting with the tartness of the sorbet and the coulis. And on top of all of that, it was pretty too – like prom queen who also happens to be a straight-A student!
After dinner we strolled around taking more pictures of the rather lovely vegetable sculptures scattered throughout the public areas on the hotel’s ground floor.
Overall it was a most enjoyable evening in gorgeous surroundings with friendly and professional staff. I thought the democratically priced starters and desserts were outstanding, although the main courses we chose were not stellar. If I had not been there to taste the special exhibition dishes then I would have gone for their excellent steak which is some of the best in London (as I discovered on my previous visit!). I loved the idea of having the sculptures scattered randomly across a number of public rooms, encouraging a nose around the hotel and conversations about who had seen the cherry and where. If you want to come and visit to see the exhibition, you could dine as we did or take in the Balcon’s excellent value Marché Menu which is perfect for pre- or post-theatre dining. Alternatively, enjoy a signature Laroche cocktail which the bartender in the hotel’s St James Bar has created to accompany the exhibition, and which includes ingredients such as heirloom tomatoes, mushroom syrup, cucumber, rosemary and basil ice cubes. The special menu items and the Laroche cocktail will be on offer until the end of the exhibition, on 31 October 2014.
DISCLOSURE: I enjoyed this meal as a guest of the Sofitel St James but received no further remuneration. I was not required to write a positive review and all opinions expressed are my own.
The Balcon London
Sofitel St James
8 Pall Mall
London
SW1Y 5NG
Tel: + 44 (0) 20 7968 2900
E-mail: thebalcon.london@sofitel.com
Read this on my phone and the text loaded before the images. I was left imagining all sorts of things but when they finally appeared I was so taken with their gleaming gorgeousness. The food sounds good too 🙂
Hahaha – that was the intention 😉 I have to say that I was not that excited about the idea of sculptures of vegetables till I laid my eyes on these. I can’t resist a shiny thing… And you should definitely bear the Balcon in mind for future visits to London – their pre-theatre is streets nicer than many other places in Theatreland and the surroundings are v lovely.
It was a fun evening. The starters were indeed absolutely scrumptious and I loved the setting and the shiny vegetables. Plus I noted one could obtain a Croque Monsieur which definitely means a return visit! I’m putting the Balcon down as a place to remember, the staff were attentive and welcoming, the tables are well-spaced and the menu well-priced. Enjoyed.
It was indeed – especially when the waitress came over to tell us “your drinking buddies have arrived” ;o) You are so right about the staff and table spacing – so often failures in London restaurants. I’d go back for a croque monsieur for sure!
When I saw in the title “vegetable sculptures” I had something totally different in mind.
Hah – I know, me too when the PR first made contact! I thought it would be like a gingerbread house made from artichokes or something! These were spectacular though – definitely one of the better exhibitions I have seen 🙂
Wow! You do go to some right nice places – looks like you had an amazing time!
I have to say, we felt pretty pampered 🙂 The Balcom is often dismissed because it is in a hotel, but it is a really lovely place.
They would make rather jolly Christmas decorations!
Your poached egg looks so appealing, I would definitely order that.
Wouldn’t they just! I can just imagine a tree festooned with sparkly durians, twinkly asparagus and shiny peppers! I think he is missing a trick here 😉 The poached egg was heavenly – but if I went back I would order a triple portion of those fab little sweet pea sliders…
what a gorgeous menu and evening you had. The food sounds so inventive and lovely to see vegetables taking centre stage. Am adding to my places to visit
I know, right? Vegetables are so often the side order rather than the star. Those sliders alone are worth a visit – I hope they make them permanent on the menu. It’s definitely a place worth adding to your list and probably my favourite place for a relaxed pre- or post-theatre menu.
I absolutely love these sculpture, how wonderful it must have been to see them all and also enjoy a meal in what looks like beautiful surroundings.
Aren’t they the coolest?? And the Balcon really is an oasis just a stone’s throw from theatreland 🙂
They look like giant Christmas baubles!
They do! Now there’s a gift idea for the foodie that has everything – a giant shiny asparagus Christmas bauble! (ooerr, steady on, missus!)
Holy cow those are absolutely stunningly amazing sculptures! What absolute beauties! I’m absolutely blown away – and the food looks amazing too. I’m so envious of your experience 😀
I was not expecting to like them nearly as much as I did, but in the flesh (so to speak!) they are irresistible! The Balcon is definitely a place to remember for a good pre-theatre meal 🙂