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Andrew’s Really Secret Event – an afternoon with Australia’s First Families of Wine

by Jeanne Horak on July 13, 2011 9 Comments in London food blogger events, Wine & beer

Andrew'sReallySecretEvent © J Horak-Druiff 2011

So… we’d been walked around Mayfair to a secret location – with a dress code, no less.  We’d missed trains and braved walks in dark woods up precipitous hills as well as hangovers to attend.  So when the invitation for the 4th in the series of ARSE (Andrew‘s Really Secret Event) gatherings arrived, I signed up without a moment’s hesitation.  I expected a list of instructions that included things like “bring an elephant gun and water purification tablets” or “make sure your compass works”.  Instead I got the far more prosaic “Meet outside Farringdon tube station at ten past noon on Sunday”.  Ah well. Guess the adrenalin was getting too much for our charming host ;o)

From Farringdon it was a mere hop, skip and jump on lovely flat, tarred roads (no dark hills!) to one of my favourite venues in London – Vinoteca where ARSE#4 was taking place.  Andrew explained that the event was to be some sort of speed dating.  Speed dating?  Surely he was kidding?  But no, we got to the venue to find long table lined with pairs of chairs facing each other in the classic speed dating style.  To our relief, though, we were not going to be speed-dating our fellow-bloggers, but the dozen or so Australian winemakers who were there representing Australia’s First Families of Wine, an initiative bringing together 12 of Australia’s oldest family-owned vineyards.  We would move from table to table, and at each table, 3 or 4 winemakers would get 4-5 minutes each to present a wine.  If only all speed dating were this much fun!

 

ARSEWinemakerCollage

 

ARSETable1

At my first table, I met Bruce Tyrell of Tyrell’s Wines and Phil Ryan of McWilliam’s Wines, as well as Natalie Burch of Howard Park who has possibly the driest sense of humour I have ever come across – clearly I was an instant fan ;).  Here, we tasted the 2005 McWilliams Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon (quite tart with notes of Granny Smith apple and pineaple); the 2003 Tyrrell’s Winemaker Selection Vat 1 Hunter Semillon (an surprisingly French nose, and a wine that tasted astonishingly young, considering its age); and my runaway favourite, the 2009 Howard Park Riesling (a heady nose of apricots, but bone dry with a tremendously long finish).

 

ARSETable2

ARSEChester

But sadly we couldn’t linger – we had more hot winemakers to date ;o) At the next table, we were greeted by Alister Purbrick of Tahbilk, Ross Brown of Brown Brothers, Leanne de Bortoli, and the irrepressible Chester Osborn (and his equally irrepressible shirt!) of d’Arenberg.  Each winemaker talked about their wine, but it was only Chester who also brought along props – a fake spider, a dead hand, a feral fox soft toy, sticks and stones…  Check out the names of their wines to see why! Anyhoo, back to business.  Here, we tasted the 2008 Brown Brothers Banksdale Chardonnay (a nose like a French Chablis and a lovely full, rounded palate – toasty but not overwhelming and balanced by lots of citrussy notes.  Totally unlike the standard expectations of an Aussie Chardonnay!); a 2008 De Bortoli Estate Chardonnay (a nose like a pot of melted butter and a palate full of grapefruit – classic and restrained); a 2009 Tahbilk Viognier (litchis and Apple Fizzer sweets on the nose followed by a big fruit salad palate full of apricots – a lovely big mouth-filling wine with well balanced mouth-watering acidity); and a 2009 d’Arenberg Money Spider Rousanne (fantastically intriguing nose with pears and honey; and a heady palate with spices, fruit and minerality all in one big bell curve of flavour and structure). My favourites here for me were definitely the Viognier and the Rousanne.

 

ARSETable3B

ARSETable3A

Yet again, no time to linger as the buzzer sounded and we had to move to our final tables.  Here we met with Mitchell Taylor of Wakefield Wines, Johann Henschke of Henschke, and Chris Unger from Yalumba’s UK negociants.  At our final table we tasted reds, starting with the 2005 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz (buckets of blackberries on the nose – like alcoholic Ribena – and an unexpectedly fascinating palate with smoky overtones and white pepper notes to balance out the berry hit).  Following that came a 2008 Yalumba The Scribbler Cabernet Sauvignon (an classic chocolate and mint nose; and a wonderful lush palate of ripe, upfront berry fruit and aforementioned mint preceding a long, bitter chocolae finish); a 2006 Campbells Bobbie Burns Durif – not a grape I get to see often (ruby port-like on the nose as well as the palate – quite tannic and might need some more time in the bottle); and my favourite of the bunch: a 2008 Wakefield Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (an almost savoury, raw meat nose and a complex, structured palate with dark berry fruit and vanilla and a hint of spice – absolutely wonderful and very well-priced too).

 

ARSEstarter

 

That concluded the formal tasting part of the afternoon – all that remained was to sit back, relax, have lunch and socialise.  The starter looked almost too pretty to eat:  thinly sliced salt-baked celeriac, crispy Jerusalem artichoke chips, red onion and aioli. This was an inspired combination of colours, flavours and textures:  earthy, tangy, crispy, creamy.  Swoon.  It was also a great match for the Henschke Riesling, which was green-appley and had enough acid to stand up the earthy flavours in the food.

 

ARSEMain

The main course was a classic dish of rolled braised lamb, crushed minted peas and Spring vegetables (pattypan squashes, spinach and carrots).  The lamb was meltingly tender (and properly seasoned – a rarity!); but it was the crushed peas that had me swooning.  We found not one but two spectacular wine matches for the food.  First up was the 2005 Wakefield St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon (prunes on the nose; and Christmas pudding full of dried fruit on the palate with a long vanilla-ish finish); and then there was the 2006 Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz (an inky colour, a nose full of vanilla and white pepper; and a phenomenal mouth-filling palate of dark fruit and butterscotch).

 

ARSEDessert

 

And last but by no means least came dessert:  Williams pear and almond tart with vanilla ice-cream and caramel sauce.  This was lovely – not too sweet or too rich (although I have to note that mine was a teensy bit overdone on the bottom).  Again we tried two wines with this:  the Yalumba Viognier (an almost gingery nose with apricots, like a dessert wine; and a huge butterscotchy, caramlised pineapple palate and a long finish); and the Campbells Rutherglen Topaque – a Tokay-style wine made from 100% Muscadelle grapes, rebranded in terms of a 2007 agreement whereby Australia agreed to stop using the term Tokay.  The colour alone sent me into raptures (a fabulous deep amber) but the nose (sultanas) and the palate (honey, dried peaches and a long, clean finish) were the real stars.

This was without a doubt one of the most succesful and enjoyable winetasting events that I have been to.  Not only were the AFFW winemakers an engaging, passionate and sociable lot – the speed dating format was also just inspired. It is so easy at wine tasting events to get stuck on one or two producers or to miss speaking to producers you had hoped to meet.  This format prevented both these situations and also meant that everybody mingled with everybody.  Serving a meal rather than a collection of dry crackers with the wine was also a great idea and provided us with much entertainment as we back-tasted and tried to identify the best match for each course.  Vinoteca, as ever, outdid themselves with the food, all of which was heavenly.  Thank you so much to Andrew for organising another fantastic event, and thank you to all the AFFW winemakers who took time out of their busy LIWF week activities to spend an afternoon with us.

For other perspectives on the afternoon, check out Andrew’s two posts, Neil’s post, Champagne on the Brain’s post, The FoodWine Diarist’s post

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  1. Ailbhe says

    July 13, 2011 at 5:29 pm

    Such a pity I missed this one. Tyrrells, Howard Park and McWilliams I’ve had the pleasure of often when in Oz (and of course Brown Bros). I remember years ago introducing some of my aussie in-laws to their own home grown viogniers that I had read about in the UK wine press and they (and their wine club members) fast became fans – elbowing out the popular oaked chardonnays! Interesting report with lovely pics as always x

    Reply
  2. Andrew says

    July 13, 2011 at 6:01 pm

    It was rather successful I have to admit; many thanks to you for coming along and yet again supporting my ARSE. I should mention the light in Vinoteca was fab for photos; as your ‘snaps’ demonstrate…

    Reply
  3. Gourmet Chick says

    July 13, 2011 at 9:02 pm

    Can’t believe you met so many Aussie winemakers – I am jealous. Particularly the famous Chester!

    Reply
  4. Firefly says

    July 14, 2011 at 9:25 am

    Another blogger event. The seeming joys of being a blogger in any place bigger than PE. Good food and good wine pared together. Lovely!

    Reply
  5. Mona Wise says

    July 14, 2011 at 11:37 am

    Wow. Wine heaven for sure. What an amazing event. I would love to attend one in any city. You can tell A LOT of work went into that event.
    The colour of the Tokay sent me over the edge and I was just looking at it. Beautiful. What a lucky girl you are!
    Hope you are getting some sun today xx

    Reply
  6. Deeba says

    July 14, 2011 at 11:52 am

    What an exciting event, and so well covered Jeanne! I love the name and I love speed tasting. The food pairing looks fab too.

    Reply
  7. Jamie says

    July 15, 2011 at 11:23 am

    This sounds like such a fun event and absolutely brilliant in its planning and organization. I love the concept for both buyer and seller. We are rather getting bored with the milling around and chance tastings of French events like this. And the food looks fab! Fun day!

    Reply
  8. wine australia says

    November 4, 2011 at 3:06 am

    My favorite wine among the choices would have to be the 2009 d’Arenberg Money Spider Rousanne. It has a peachy aroma and taste so sweet.

    Reply
  9. charlottew657 says

    April 7, 2012 at 4:43 am

    I’ve found this very interesting and has a good stuff for the readers and designers. I would be glad to recommend the post for its quality content. Nice post.
    Gourmet Secrets

    Reply
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Jeanne | Stylish food & travel


Are you a cook... or a baker?
I fall firmly into

Are you a cook... or a baker? 
I fall firmly into the "cook" category. Baking is too precise, too fiddly - and best left to those with an affinity for it, I always say! But every now and then, only a cake will do. Say, for example... when you celebrate your blog's SIXTEENTH birthday!! 🎉🍾 Yes, last month Cooksister.com turned sweet sixteen, and to celebrate I baked this sticky spiced plum upside down cake. It's a very forgiving recipe and it's worth every single calorie 😁. Click on the link in my profile to see the recipe or save this post so you can find it later: https://www.cooksister.com/2020/06/sticky-spiced-plum-upside-down-cake.html

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappoint
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

Anybody else got Lockdown Itchy Feet Syndrome...?? If it isn't an official disorder,  it certainly should be!

I have always been a dreamer, a planner, an explorer. Few things excite me more than stepping onto the soil of a country I have not visited before. When I am going through tough personal times, my go-to self-help therapy has always been to arrange a trip - to throw off the metaphorical bow lines and sail away to a new adventure. 
But then... Corona 😞  I can honestly say that I am enjoying working from home; enjoying having the time to run every day; enjoying cooking proper meals; enjoying my own company; enjoying the lack of FOMO. But OH MAN, I miss travel. 
This image was taken 2 years ago in St George's, Grenada - my first visit to the Caribbean but  certainly not my last. This photo has me dreaming of the day I can throw off those bow lines and travel again... How are you dealing with the lack of travel during this time?

Am I the only one feeling faintly sad at all the S
Am I the only one feeling faintly sad at all the Spring bulbs that were planted last year that have been flowering in parks and public gardens with nobody (or fewer people, anyway...) around to admire them? Spare a thought for the gardeners at Holland's famous Keukenhof who planted SEVEN MILLION bulbs last winter in preparation for the garden's annual 2-month opening... but because of Covid-19 Keukenhof did not open at all in 2020. 
But the good news is that for the first time in its history, Keukenhof was virtually open this year, meaning you can enjoy the best of the Spring flowers virtually, from the comfort of your armchair.  Keukenhof posted an amazing series of videos to their YouTube channel featuring magnificent 360 degree tours of the 2020 flowering bulbs; a run-down of the best photo spots; talks by various Keukenhof gardeners; and even a visit from Spongebob Squarepants!  You can check out their YouTube channel here https://bit.ly/2WWkahW. Or you can visit my blog  https://bit.ly/2zMgrLL  to see more of my Keukenhof images like this one of a river of tulips from when I visited a few years ago.

Have you visited Keukenhof?  What were your favourite Spring flowers? ⚘⚘⚘

When people tell me they don't like Brussels spro
When  people tell me they don't like Brussels sprouts, my inner voice always cries out the same response: oh honey, you're just doing it wrong! Sesame ginger sprouts are nutty, zingy and delicious - the opposite of the overcooked grey stinky sprouts of your youth, and so easy to make! 🔖 Remember to save this post so you can make the recipe later! The recipe is also on my blog - click the live link in my profile. 
For 4 people you need:
500 g Brussels sprouts, trimmed, halved and cooked (I roast mine in a hot oven)
1 x 2cm piece of ginger cut into fine matchsticks
2 Tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
1 Tbsp canola oil
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
Salt & pepper 
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Did you know that 6 February is Waitangi Day, the
Did you know that 6 February is Waitangi Day, the national day of New Zealand? .

I am marking the occasion with this photo was taken just over 3 years ago on the shores of beautiful Lake Pukaki on the South Island, looking across at Mt Aoraki.  I loved my visit and planned the trip completely independently – here are some tips for anybody thinking of visiting the South Island. .
🔖Click “save” to bookmark these tips for later! ➡️ 1) Take more time than you think you need. In a week you will barely scratch the surface of the South Island - I would say 2 weeks is a comfortable amount of time. ➡️ 2) Don’t assume that summer means hot weather! Even in December (the height of summer) temperatures peak at about 21C in Christchurch. Pack layers. ➡️ 3) Do spend time in Queenstown. It is stunning and one of my favourite places I have ever visited – great for hiking in summer, skiing in winter, sailing on the lake, adventure sports and a base for many surrounding natural attractions. ➡️ 4) Take day trips from Queenstown to Milford Sound and the Franz Josef glacier (but be aware that the weather is often not great). ➡️ 5) Take a road trip! The roads are excellent and generally empty – and it means you get to pose in places like the shore of Lake Pukaki 😊 .
Have you visited New Zealand’s South Island?  Would you like to?  Let me know in the comments!

"Don't just stand there, let's get to it: strike a
"Don't just stand there, let's get to it: strike a pose there's nothing to it!" (Madonna)

Nicole Kidman's is both hands on hips. Meryl Streep's is only left hand on hip. Victoria Beckham's is right hip out, left foot forward (and no smile!). Mine started as a joke many years ago - the earliest evidence I have is from 2005 😎 Do YOU have a signature pose? Tell me in the comments or DM me a pic!

This particular pose was struck on the @chateaulhospitalet estate in the Languedoc, looking out over @gerardbertrandwines vineyards all the way to the Mediterranean. You can read all about my stay there now on the blog - click on the live link in my profile

Even if you are not a French speaker as such, you
Even if you are not a French speaker as such, you may be surprised by the number of French words you already know: rendezvous, entrepreneur, souvenir and ricochet need no introduction. All have been adopted into English wholesale, with their original French meaning and spelling. Perhaps they should apply for settled status post-Brexit... But sometimes a word’s literal translation in French bears no resemblance to what the word has come to mean, such as canape. Although we know the word as meaning a small piece of pastry or bread with a savoury topping served at drinks receptions, the literal translation is a decorative antique sofa. When a clever chef first came up with the idea, the topping was thought to sit on the bread or pastry like a person reclining on a sofa, and the snacks came to be known half-jokingly as canapes. Fact! 
I enjoyed these very elegant canapes (LOVED the lacy little potato lattices!) with Code Rouge sparkling wine before a jazz dinner at Gerard Bertrand’s flagship wine estate Chateau L’Hospitalet in the Languedoc.  The dinner was as  spectacular as the canapes and you can read all about it on my blog now – click the live link in my profile above.

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1.  The closest station is Liverpool Street which is only a 5 minute walk from the market.
2. It's open daily, with over a hundred stalls, but on Wednesday the focus is on fashion & on Thursday the focus is on antiques & vintage.
3. The busiest day is Sunday - get there early to beat the crowds!
4. Make sure you sample some of the excellent street food on offer - I love the 8-hour pulled pork bagels from Dirty Bagel, topped with cheese melted by blowtorch in front of your eyes; or the traditional raclette at Abondance.
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Thanks @meetakwolff for the 📸

"You're off to Great Places! Today is your day! Yo
"You're off to Great Places! Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting so... get on your way!" (Dr Seuss)

How are you starting the new decade? Staring at the mountains ahead, worrying about how hard they will be to climb and whether your shoes will be comfortable and whether it is going to rain along the way? Or striding confidently towards the mountains ahead, looking forward to the fresh air filling your lungs and the sense of purpose as your legs carry you ever higher, and relishing the prospect of an amazing view from the top?

There is no finer metaphor for life than a walk in the mountains and I have already made my choice as to how I plan to tackle the mountains of 2020. What's your choice? 
Wishing you all a very happy new year and amazing views from the top of every personal and professional mountain that you climb!

This particular mountain is in the Austrian Alps where I hiked last summer. Thanks to @thepassionatecook for the 📸!


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Jeanne Horak is a freelance food and travel writer; recipe developer and photographer. South African by birth and Londoner by choice, Jeanne has been writing about food and travel on Cooksister since 2004. She is a popular speaker on food photography and writing has also contributed articles, recipes and photos to a number of online and print publications. Jeanne has also worked with a number of destination marketers to promote their city or region. Please get in touch to work with her Read More…

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