Cooksister | Food, Travel, Photography

Food, photos & faraway places

  • HOME
  • ABOUT
    • About me
    • Contact me
    • Work with me
    • Legal
      • Copyright notice & Disclaimer
      • Disclosure
      • Cookies and Privacy Policy
    • Press and media
    • Cooksister FAQs
  • RECIPES
    • Recipe Index – by course
    • Baking (savoury)
    • Braai/Barbecue
    • Breakfast & brunch
    • Christmas
    • Dessert
    • Drinks
    • Eggs
    • Fish
    • Gluten-free
    • Leftovers
    • Pasta & rice
    • Poultry
    • Pulses
    • Salads
    • Soup
    • South African
    • Starters & light meals
    • Vegan
    • Vegetables
    • Vegetarian
  • RESTAURANTS
    • British Isles restaurants
    • Dubai restaurants
    • France restaurants
    • London restaurants
    • Montenegro restaurants
    • New York restaurants
    • Pop-ups and supperclubs
    • Serbia restaurants
    • Singapore restaurants
    • South Africa restaurants
    • Sweden restaurants
    • Switzerland restaurants
    • USA restaurants
  • TRAVEL
    • All my travel posts
      • Austria
      • Belgium
      • Canada
      • Dubai
      • Cruise ships
      • France
      • Germany
      • Greece
      • Grenada
      • Hong Kong
      • Hotel reviews
      • Italy
      • Israel
      • Jersey
      • Mexico
      • Netherlands
      • Norway
      • Portugal
      • Singapore
      • Ski & snow
      • South Africa
      • Spain
      • Sweden
      • Switzerland
      • UK
      • USA
      • Wales
  • PORTFOLIO
    • Freelance writing portfolio
    • Speaking and teaching
    • Photography portfolio
    • Buy my photos
You are here: Home / Restaurants / London restaurants / The Gate, Islington

The Gate, Islington

by Jeanne Horak on November 20, 2015 8 Comments in London restaurants

GateTitle

Ask a group of chefs what words they dread hearing most and I can guarantee you that “we have a table with multiple and diverse dietary requirements” will make the top 5 every time. “Can I have the creamy pesto pasta, but with the lactose-free sauce  on the side please, because I am low-carbing and have a mild nut intolerance?”. And “I want the burger and chips, but I want to substitute a lentil patty for the beef; giant Portobello mushrooms for the buns; and kale instead of the lettuce garnish.” Or “I am trying out a vegan version of the Paleo diet – what do you suggest?”.  It’s enough to strike fear into the heart of any chef. Maybe this is the reason why restaurants catering to special diets have generally had a bad rap – the assumption is that paring down what you serve to exclude certain food groups will leave you with only insipid culinary dregs, devoid of deliciousness.  But that assumption does not take into consideration a restaurant like The Gate.

Many moons ago when I first arrived in London, I worked briefly in Hammersmith. It was a ridiculously long commute but the job was fun and my colleagues were great – and it was one of them who introduced me to The Gate.  Tucked in behind the Hammersmith Apollo in the shadow of the rather unlovely Hammersmith flyover, it amazed me with its fresh, airy space and truly inspired vegetarian food.  Owners Adrian and Michael Daniel’s menu relied heavily on Middle Eastern and Mediterranean ingredients and was made up of dishes based on childhood memories of their Indo-Iraqi Jewish heritage, with touches of contemporary French and Italian influences.  But Hammersmith these days is just too far for me to venture for dinner, so I was thrilled to discover that a second outpost had opened in Islington near the Sadler’s Wells theatre in 2012, and they recently invited me to dinner to celebrate the company’s 25th anniversary this year. The space in Islington is very different to that in Hammersmith but no less pleasant, with high ceilings and packed with original architectural features.  The menu is pithy (about 6-8 starters and an equal number or mains) but both my guest Krista and I really struggled to make a choice – I would happily have eaten everything on the menu!

 

GateRoom

 

GateWine

But in the end, choices had to be made, and Krista started with the roasted pumpkin, dolcelatte and crispy sage tart (£6.00), while I could not resist the tempura courgette flower filled with sweet potato, goat’s cheese & pine nuts on puy lentil salad with garlic & lemon aioli (£8.00). In an unexpected turn of events, both of us were at once smug in our choice and suffering menu envy! Krista’s tart was moist and packed with flavour (who can resist crispy sage??); while mine was a textbook example of what a tempura courgette flower should be – light and crispy without being oily and contrasting perfectly with the creamy, cheesy filling. I also loved the nutty texture that the lentils and pine nuts added. So a huge success on the starter front.

 

GateSquashTart

 

GateZucchiniFlowers

The choice of main courses proved no easier in terms of making a choice – and to complicate things, there were some mushroom-themed menu specials when we visited. In the end though we both ordered off the main menu. Krista chose the butternut squash rotolo – roasted  butternut, goat’s cheese and basil in baked thyme-infused rolled strip of potato, served with tomato & caper salsa and a lemon butter sauce  (£13,00). This definitely won the beauty prize: the vegetables were all neatly rolled up and topped with a nest of crispy wafer-thin deep-fried butternut ribbons and resting in a moat of sauce studded with tomatoes and capers. Krista pronounced it delicious and guarded it jealously! I could not resist the autumnal lure of sautéed wild mushrooms (girolles, king oysters & Paris browns) served on pan-fried risotto cake with creamy cep sauce, rocket, cheese shavings and a lemon truffle dressing (£15,00). I loved this so much, I ate slower and slower as I did not want the dish to finish. The mushrooms were full of robust, earthy flavours and meaty texture and because the risotto cake had been pan-fried, it had a delectable crispy crust – inspired! The rocket and the lemony dressing added a note of freshness while the cep sauce was pure indulgence. All in all, one of the nicest meat-free dishes I have ever had. On the side, we could not resist the sautéed kale (£4.00) which came in a generous portion and was tender and delicious (rather than tough and challenging, as it can often be); and the herby polenta chips with garlic aioli (£4.00) which were outstanding – crisp on the outside and creamy on the inside.

 

GateButternutRotolo

 

GateMushroomRisottoCake

 

In the interests of research (!) we had a look at the dessert menu and unsurprisingly we found a few things on there that we liked… Krista opted for the lemongrass, lime leaf and coconut cheesecake (£6.00) while I tried a slice of the pressed chocolate and stem ginger torte (£6.00). Both were excellent – Krista’s cheesecake was prettily served with redcurrants and lime zest, and the fresh citrus flavours balanced out the sweet flavours of the cake. My chocolate torte was utterly, utterly decadent with the denseness that can only come from being either flourless or very nearly flourless. The ginger flavour came through well and the pretty spun sugar that garnished it made for a pretty plate.

 

GateDessert2

 

GateDessert1

 

The menu (which changes regularly and is always seasonal)  indicates which dishes are vegan or gluten-free; or which dishes can be made vegan or gluten-free on request – a bonus for those on restricted diets.  The wine list was succinct and resolutely Old World – I counted only 4 New World wines on the entire list – but filled with more adventurous choices than the standard Pinot Grigio/Sauv Blanc/Merlot safe options. I was also impressed by the democratic pricing (nothing but the Champagne was much over £30) and the fact that all the wines are available by glass, 500mlo carafe, or 750ml bottle. Service was knowledgeable and personable and the atmosphere throughout the evening was relaxed.  It’s a great place to grab a bite before or after a show at Sadler’s Wells theatre but also good enough to justify a trip up St John Street purely for some of the most impressive vegetarian London cuisine that London has to offer. Here’s to the next 25 years!

For another perspective, here is my friend Helen’s review of The Gate Hammersmith.

Cost per head incl. 3 courses, a bottle of wine, coffee & tip: £60
Nearest Tube station: Angel

The Gate (Islington)
370 St John St
London
EC1V 4NN
Tel. +44 (0)20 7278 5483

 

DISCLOSURE:  I enjoyed this meal as a guest of The Gate but received no further remuneration to write this post.  I was not expected to write a positive review – all views are my own and I retain full editorial control.

Let’s keep in touch!
You can also find me tweeting at @cooksisterblog, snapping away on Instagram, or pinning like a pro on Pinterest.  To keep up with my latest posts, you can subscribe to my free e-mail alerts, like Cooksister on Facebook, or follow me on Bloglovin.

More deliciousness for you!

  • Boerewors mini sausage rollsBoerewors mini sausage rolls
  • Paola’s pasta primaveraPaola’s pasta primavera
  • Project 31 cocktails with Plymouth gin & Princess yachtsProject 31 cocktails with Plymouth gin & Princess yachts
  • Francesco Mazzei at Pizza ExpressFrancesco Mazzei at Pizza Express

Never miss a Cooksister post

If you enjoyed this post, enter your e-mail address here to receive a FREE e-mail update when a new post appears on Cooksister

I love comments almost as much as I love cheese - so if you can't leave me any cheese, please leave me a comment instead!

« Smoky cheese, pepper & chipotle Mexican quesadillas
Taste of London Festive Edition 2015 – what I ate »

Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

  1. Kate @ Veggie Desserts says

    November 20, 2015 at 5:18 pm

    I’d love to try The Gate – your pictures have made it look amazing. The roasted pumpkin, dolcelatte and crispy sage tart has got me swooning!

    Reply
  2. nazima says

    November 20, 2015 at 10:38 pm

    wow some seriously innovative and beautiful food here Jeanne. I love the beauty of this vegetarian menu. I will certainly be visiting soon.

    Reply
  3. Paola says

    November 21, 2015 at 10:27 pm

    Your pictures are absolutly beautiful and the meal looks so tasty. I want!

    Reply
  4. Claire | Sprinkles and Sprouts says

    November 21, 2015 at 11:56 pm

    I actually know The Gate at Hammersmith!!! I always get so excited when I see reviews of places I know. I didn’t realise they had a restaurants in Islington.
    Next time I go back to the UK I will be sure to check it out! It is just around the corner from my brothers house!

    Your pictures look amazing. It is breakfast here but I want to eat the mushroom on top of a risotto cake! It looks sensational.

    What a lovely review 🙂

    Reply
  5. [email protected] says

    November 24, 2015 at 9:00 am

    The Gate has been on my hit list every since Jac Meldrum reviewed it some time ago. Like you, I could eat everything on the menu. I am also pleased to see that all wines are available by the glass. I do like wine, but at my age can’t really face splitting a bottle of wine every time I wish to have a decent wine when dining out. We are coming down next weekend so I need to check which restaurant is closest to where we are staying. Great review!

    Reply
  6. Kavey says

    November 25, 2015 at 9:17 pm

    Really appealing dishes and beautifully presented! I must makea note of this as good to have some veggie friendly places to enjoy with friends.

    Reply
  7. Glamorous Glutton says

    November 27, 2015 at 3:18 pm

    This looks really delicious and great to be able to order decent wine by the glass. Love your photos too – beautiful. GG

    Reply
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Never miss a Cooksister post!

Get my latest recipes delivered by e-mail!

Search over 500 recipes

Recently on Cooksister

  • Perfect broccoli and Stilton soup [keto, low carb, GF]
  • Masalchi by Atul Kochhar – Indian street food in Wembley
  • Barbecued salmon with blood oranges and capers
  • Roasted Brussels sprouts with feta, pomegranate and pine nuts [GF, V]
  • Love Yourself healthy meal delivery [Review]
  • Antillean
  • Festive roast lamb with pomegranate glaze
  • Rustic blood orange and pistachio galettes

Archives by month

Archives by category

Popular posts

Peppermint Crisp fridge tart - a South African treat
Oxtail and red wine potjie
Nigella's Bakewell slices & the Big Bakewell Taste-off
Gem squash 101: how to find them, how to grow them, how to eat them!
Roosterkoek - a South African braai essential
Jan Ellis pudding - a classic South African dessert

Featured on

Also available on

Do you enjoy free art installations? Then you need Do you enjoy free art installations? Then you need to get down to @canarywharflondon between now and Saturday 28 Jan to catch the free Winter Lights 2023 event, back for the seventh year.

My favourites include @lukejerramartist ‘s Floating Earth; Tom Lambert’s Out of the Dark; Fluorescent Firs; Toroid by This is Loop; and the surreal and mesmerising Anima by MEATS - a tunnel filled with hundreds of thin optical fibre lights that change colour and move in the breeze 😍 

Have you been to Winter Lights? What was your favourite?
“When we look down at the Earth from space, we s “When we look down at the Earth from space, we see this amazing, indescribably beautiful planet. It looks like a living, breathing organism. But it also, at the same time, looks extremely fragile.” - International Space Station astronaut Ron Garamond

To experience the “overview effect” (a phenomenon experienced by astronauts viewing the earth from space), head down to Canary Wharf in the London docklands this week where you can see @lukejerramartist ‘s beautiful Floating Earth installation as part of the Winter Lights event. 

This giant 10m diameter installation is created using high resolution NASA images to create a floating scale model of the Earth, lit from within so that it glows from its current home on the Middle Dock, surrounded by the headquarters of international banking and finance corporations.

The artist hopes that viewed in this context, the installation will make visitors and the bankers working in surrounding buildings question how their money in savings and pensions is invested, and whether investments can be greener.

Aside from being a thought provoking piece, it is also mesmerising and surreally beautiful, so make sure you visit the free Winter Lights event before ends on Saturday 28 Jan.
Happy lunar new year! [Invited] To celebrate the Happy lunar new year! 

[Invited] To celebrate the arrival of the Year of the Rabbit, why not head over to @mamachensdumplings currently doing a residence at the @thegantrylondon in #stratford where you can feast on prawn & chive dumplings; pork, Chinese cabbage and shiitake mushroom dumplings; pork & prawn wontons with Mama Chen’s chilli oil; vegetable dumplings; smacked cucumber salad; and spicy noodles coated in garlic and Szechuan pepper oil.

And afterwards, make sure you head up to the @unionsocialoc bar for a cocktail - I loved the Moreish Fashion with bourbon, PX sherry, chestnuts and mandarin orange bitters!
Got leftover Stilton (or any blue cheese) from Chr Got leftover Stilton (or any blue cheese) from Christmas? Turn it into this super simple and super indulgent broccoli and Stilton soup! So easy to make and soooo delicious to eat - and it is low carb and GF. What more could you want?! Click the link in my bio for the full recipe. What’s your favourite soup?
CELEBRATE. So the fireworks are over, the champag CELEBRATE.

So the fireworks are over, the champagne is finished and the leftovers are all eaten. We are one week into 2023 and I have had some time to think about what my intent is for the year. 

In 2022 my brother had a life saving kidney transplant. Since the operation, he has had a Peanuts cartoon as his WhatsApp profile pic, where Charlie Brown and Snoopy are sitting on a pier talking. Charlie says “Some day, we all die Snoopy.” And Snoopy replies: “Yes - but every other day, we will live.”

Waking up in the morning is a gift, every day, and it is so easy to forget this. The last few years have been difficult for so many people and the coming year promises its own challenges. But every day that we don’t die is a day to live, to celebrate life in some small way.

So my intention in 2023 is to celebrate. Celebrate our achievements however small. Celebrate our friends and family. Celebrate small things. Celebrate life.

Did you make any resolutions or goals for 2023? I would love to hear them in the comments! Wishing you all the very best for 2023 🥂
Happy new year, everyone! Here are some scenes fro Happy new year, everyone! Here are some scenes from last night with friends in Deptford. My deconstructed avocado ritz; @twinkleparkstephen ‘s bobitie; Giles’ Ottolenghi tomato salad; and Jean’s clementine trifle - and the London night sky ablaze with fireworks!  How did you spend your evening? 🥂🎇🎆
Merry Christmas to all those celebrating - I hope Merry Christmas to all those celebrating - I hope your day was merry and bright, filled with family, friends and love 🎄🥂. Mine was spent alone at home - my choice and the result of a combination of Covid (not mine!) and rail strikes 🤦‍♀️ but very relaxing and indulgent!
Looking for a stylish and easy Christmas starter y Looking for a stylish and easy Christmas starter you can make ahead? Look no further than my individual smoked salmon terrine! Hot smoked salmon, cream cheese and chives wrapped in cold smoked salmon in a ramekin. Still one of the most popular Christmas recipes in my blog, it looks cheffy but is soooo simple to make - and will save you time and effort on the day! Get the recipe by clicking on the link in my bio.

How is your Christmas meal prep going? Are you entertaining at home or going to friends or family? 🎄🥂🎄🥂🎄
Looking for a brilliant biryani near Marble Arch? Looking for a brilliant biryani near Marble Arch? I recently enjoyed a feast at Biryani Kebab Chai @bkc.restaurant on Edgeware Road, including wonderful sweet, spicy and crunchy papri chaat; smoky burrah lamb kebab; galouti lamb patties; juicy chaap chicken thigh kebab; spicy chapli chicken patties; and the surprising vegetarian dahi ke patties made of yoghurt! We also tried the chicken and soya biryanis, both with incredibly fluffy and delicately spiced rice. You can get their biryanis as a 1kg takeaway, served in a beautiful branded clay pot that serves 3-4 people, for about £30. Bargain! We also took home a sample of their desserts, including a fragrant and delicious kheer rice pudding. If you are in the Marble Arch area, get yourself to BKC!  #invited #bkcrestaurants
Load More... Follow me on Instagram

Follow Jeanne Horak-Druiff's board Recipes by Cooksister on Pinterest.

Cooksister

The South African Food and Wine Blog Directory

The South African Food and Wine Blog Directory

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter

Jeanne Horak is a freelance food and travel writer; recipe developer and photographer. South African by birth and Londoner by choice, Jeanne has been writing about food and travel on Cooksister since 2004. She is a popular speaker on food photography and writing has also contributed articles, recipes and photos to a number of online and print publications. Jeanne has also worked with a number of destination marketers to promote their city or region. Please get in touch to work with her Read More…

Latest Recipes

Bowls of broccoli and Stilton soup
Salmon with blood oranges dill and capers
Brussels sprouts with feta and pomegranate
Roast lamb with pomegranate glaze
Blood orange & pistachio galettes
Cauliflower topped steak with melted cheese
Plate of potted smoked salmon with slaw and a glass of champagne
bowls of pistachio pomegranate bircher muesli

SITEMAP

Home

Contact

About me

Recipe Index

Restaurant Index

Copyright & Disclaimer

Cookies & privacy policy




blog counter

© 2004 - 2023 · Jeanne Horak unless otherwise stated - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. You may not reproduce any text, excerpts or images without my prior permission. Site by RTW Labs

Copyright © 2023 · Cooksister on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

Cooksister cookie consent
We use cookies to ensure you receive the best experience on our site. If you continue to use this site, you are agreeing to our terms and conditions. Accept
Privacy & Cookies Policy

Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary
Always Enabled
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Non-necessary
Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.
SAVE & ACCEPT