Proudly South African verjuice

by Jeanne on November 25, 2007

in NaBloPoMo 2007, South African products

20070902_verjuiceeoptimised One of the things that I like most about travelling is that I get to shop for exotic ingredients on every trip.  Sometimes I do my research so as to make sure I come back with whatever product the area that I am visiting is best known for.  Other times I just wander around the shops until something catches my eye – and that’s precisely how I came into possession of a bottle of caramelised verjuice syrup.  I remembered reading something recently about verjuice, so I picked up the bottle and brought it back to the UK with me.  And there it sat on my shelf until a month or two later when I finally opened and used it.  One taste was all it took to convince me I had something special in my possession.

The name verjuice comes from the old French vertjus – literally green juice. It was traditionally made in wine growing countries by pressing the unripe, green grapes thinned from bunches early in the growing season to make the remaining grapes stronger. The green grapes were crushed and then either yeast was added (to aid a gentle fermentation) or salt was added (to limit fermentation). Either way, the lack of sugar in the unripe fruit put a damper on any potential fermentation so it’s a very mildly fermented product, acidic but with less bitterness that vinegar. The fermented version could be kept for a reasonably long time, while the unfermented version had a fresher taste but a shorter shelf life. Where grapes were not available, crab apples were commonly used, although any acidic fruit would work.

Traditionally, verjuice was used as an acidulator, particularly (since the 18th century) in the making of mustard. It is said that the replacement of vinegar with verjuice in the making of Dijon mustard is the secret behind its smoother and less tangy taste compared to English mustard. But sadly, verjuice fell from favour during the early 19th century. Crusaders returning to Europe brought lemons from the Middle East and just like that, a far easier source of acidic juice was found. Which meant that verjuice’s time in the spotlight was over. Until the late 20th century, that is, when Australian Maggie Beer spearheaded a revival of verjuice.

So what does this have to do with South Africa? We are one of a select group of countries where commercial production of verjuice has once again started on a small scale. Instrumental in all this are the multi-talented Janice Botha and Diane Heynes and their Verjuice Company. Janice worked for many years in film production before following a dream and designing, building and opening a restaurant at Scarborough (near Cape Town). Her interest in verjuice was piqued after receiving Maggie Beer’s recipe book as a gift and the seed that was to grow into The Verjuice Company was sown.

The first commercially-available vintage was the 2002 vintage made from Pinotage grapes and it sold out completely. And from there, demand for the rather lovely onion-skin coloured liquid has grown exponentially. It is available through many Woolworths stores, as well as delis and speciality shops throughout the country. I discovered it when I bought a bottle of their caramelised verjuice syrup at the lovely Dessie’s in Port Elizabeth, which bottle has since been put to good use drizzled liberally over my prosciutto-wrapped grilled nectarines.

So why use verjuice when lemon juice and vinegar? The main and best reason is simple: whereas vinegar and lemon juice will clash with the taste of whatever wine you are serving with the meal, verjuice is far more closely related in taste to the wine and will compliment the wine to a far greater degree.  Here in London, verjuice is still seen as a pretty exotic ingredient, so it’s nice to know South Africa is on the culinary cutting edge!

If you have a bottle of verjuice but are at a loss as to how to use it, here are some ideas:

- instead of vinegar or lemon juice in salad dressings;

- instead of white wine or brandy when deglazing pans;

- poaching fresh fruit or reconstituting dried fruit;

- drizzle over grilled fish or barbecued baby octopus;

- cutting the richness of sauces or meat dishes, especially with pork;

- instead of balsamic vinegar when caramelising onions;

- heavily reduced as a topping for ice cream (or be lazy and buy the caramelised syrup!); or

- in the preparation of mustards.

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{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }

Charlotte November 26, 2007 at 5:12 am

Fascinating post, Jeanne. I had no idea what verjuice was used for, just that it was slightly old-fashioned and odd. Now I know what to use it for if I ever get my hands on some.

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Pille November 26, 2007 at 10:36 am

We ‘discovered’ verjuice at Petersham Nurseries in April, where Skye added it to her roasted rhubarb dessert. We stocked up in Fortnum & Mason, and have since been using it a bit here, a little bit there. Very exciting, and really nice. Thanks for giving me extra few tips for using this!!

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Jelly November 26, 2007 at 11:37 am

Hi!
I sent you an e-mail with my entry for “Waiter, there’s something in my…topples tart!”.
Did you recive it?
I have some problems with my mailbox…
Thank you.
Bye!

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myfrenchkitchen November 26, 2007 at 12:15 pm

Jeanne, I have missed so many of your recipes…just came back from Stockholm. I always have a bottle of verjus on my shelf. I love it! thanks for all the great extra tips!
Ronell

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Susan from Food Blogga November 27, 2007 at 12:11 am

What an engaging post this is, Jeanne–I learned so much. Thank you!

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african vanielje November 27, 2007 at 12:28 am

I LOVE verjus, my mom and I used to use it all the time at her restaurant. It is great for all those things you mentioned, and is also great caramelised with a root veg tarte tatin and in fresh fruit coulis. Great article.

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Sarah Pipilini November 27, 2007 at 7:34 am

Hello Sweetie, me again!
I’ve just been reading this fascinating epistle (I saw the word ‘crusaders’ and I just had to throw in this noun) regarding the varied and versatile uses of Verjuice. Well I was wondering? Seeing that it imparts a tart yet unsour acidic taste to anything you add it to, would you be so kind as to let me know how it reacts with the more delicate parts of your skin?
I’ve tried lemon juice but that hurts too much and my god, balsamic vinegar stains so badly!

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Jeanne December 2, 2007 at 7:08 pm

Hi Charlotte
I was pretty much in the same boat as you when I saw this bottle and bought it on a whim. Now, I’m sold on the idea! Definitely something to look out for (or get people to bring) in SA.
Hi Pille
Now why does it not surprise me that Sky uses this lovely ingredient? I use it to finish grilled salmon straks these days, together with a bit of soy sauce – gives a lovely sweet & sour flavour.
Hi Jelly
Yup, got it – but today I can’t access my webmail at all due to some interface problem on the provider’s side. Grrr. So roundup is going extra slow… but we will persevere!
Hi Ronell
Hurrah – another verjuice convert! Glad to have you back & look forward to posts about your trip :)
Hi Susan
Glad you liked the post :)
Hi Inge
Oooooh…. root vegetable tarte tatin… Sorry, having a little dreamy dream moment here! And I love the idea of using it in a fruit coulis to give it a bit of an edge :)
Hi Sarah
Have you tried a little hydrogen peroxide? I hear that works wonders for stains. And I believe a Good Samaritan already tried it out on your skin a couple of years ago after that nasty scooter accident? :o)

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Jayson Hunter October 12, 2009 at 12:11 pm

Well for those of you who love Verjuice and are having difficulty finding it, you’ll be pleased to know that I will be exclusively importing the South African Verjuice products into the UK and Ireland.
To be kept up to date with our progress please sign up to our newsletter at http://www.verjuice.co.uk

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