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REVIEW: High Timber

by Jeanne Horak on February 24, 2015 11 Comments in London restaurants

HighTimberTitle

When people hear I am a food blogger, one of the first things they constantly ask is: “So what’s your favourite London restaurant?”. It’s a question that I’ve both come to expect and dread.  Firstly, there is no answer to that question.  It depends on a myriad of variables including what kind of food and level of formality I’m in the mood for; how much cash I want to flash; how far from home I feel like travelling; and whether it’s a special night or just a Tuesday when I can’t face cooking.  Secondly, I have recently found that people you barely know pounce on whatever answer you give them and explain why they went to the same place and hated it, and then look at you expectantly as if they have rumbled you as some sort of fake. And thirdly, the question assumes that all food bloggers have their finger on the pulse of London’s restaurant and street food scene and attend every opening and are therefore perfectly equipped to tell everyone where to find the best kimchi/hot dog/roast chicken in town. Well, I’m sure some do, but I am generally not in that group. Yes, I do spend a fair bit of time in restaurants, but if you look at which ones I go to, I am far more likely to revisit ones I have enjoyed in the past.

My husband recently pointed out to me that, on the basis of how many special occasions we have enjoyed there, our favourite restaurant would have to be High Timber: the tally includes one 40th birthday; one new year’s eve; and most recently one Valentine’s Day dinner, and thay’s not counting the random visits in between.  I first met South African owner-manager Neleen Strauss when she was working as a sommelier at another of my regular haunts, Vivat Bacchus.  Neleen left there in 2009 to open High Timber, a restaurant that she jointly owns with South African wine producers Gary and Kathy Jordan of  Jordan wine estate near Stellenbosch. The restaurant is not one you’d find by accident – more than once I have taken people there to have them exclaim: “But I never knew this was here!”  Hint: the easiest approach is to walk as if you are crossing the millennium bridge from St Paul’s to the Tate Modern, but as you get to the foot of the bridge, take the stairs on your left that lead to the river bank, turn left, and walk about 250m along the river till you can go no further and you have arrived. The restaurant is situated on the ground floor of an otherwise residential building and features cool stone floors and floor-to-ceiling windows.  It’s perhaps not a cosy space, but light and airy, and with the feel of an upmarket South African wine estate tasting room to it – not surprising, given the pedigree!  Sadly, the Thames flood defences mean that there is a very solid wall between you and the river which means despite being right at the water’s edge, not much of a view from the tables.  But we often take our drinks and stand on the terrace (or dine al fresco in the summer) and from there the view is spectacular, day and night.

 

HighTimberInterior

 

HighTimberView

 

HighTimberViewDay

HighTimberView2

HightimberViewNigh

 

The restaurant prides itself on South African hospitality, but is quick to point out that they are not a themed novelty restaurant (in the way that, say, Shaka Zulu most definitely is).  So the menu is upmarket steak restaurant fare with a few South African twists (homemade biltong, malva pudding) rather than a list of South African classics. But if the menu is international, the wine list shows a definite South African leaning – and the printed list gives only a flavour of the 40,000 bottles in the cellar. There is obviously a good selection of Jordan wines, but also an impressive spread of other South African classics, including the FMC Moelleux Chenin Blanc which the restaurant specially commissioned from winemaker Ken Forrester. Of course, there is also a good selection of classic European wines too – anything from a basic Côtes du Rhône for under £35 to a wallet-crushing Romanée-Conti.  The wine list invites diners to request a trip to the cellar to choose their own wine, which I’d highly recommend as an experience to remember. Or you can do as we do these days and ask Neleen to recommend something based on what we’re eating, how much we want to spend, and my particular grapes we like or dislike.

But what about the food, I hear you ask?  As I said, my most recent visit was earlier this month for Valentine’s Day, when we had a limited a la carte menu for £59 per head.  We started with a gorgeous creamy Jersey oyster topped with a blob of Onuga caviar, paired with a glass of the delectable Graham Beck Brut Rosé. for starters we both chose the white onion soup, black truffle and rarebit crouton.  For a chilly winter evening, I cannot think of a nicer dish – the soup itself was thick and deeply flavoured, and the rarebit crouton provided an indulgent textural contrast. (Other starters included confit duck leg & foie gras terrine, or smoked salmon). For mains, the stonebass and the carrot gnocchi did not even get a look in – both of us had our hearts set on the 28 day matured beef rib, on the bone, for two served with HT chips and Béarnaise sauce and what a good choice it was. The steak arrived rare and properly charred and had a great meaty flavour that was nicely complemented by the sauce. The side of buttered kale was wonderful too – lovely young leaves with no hint of stringiness. For dessert, we both chose the orange blossom cake with frosted pistachios and whipped crème fraiche, followed by petit fours.   To wash all this down, we had a bottle of 2010 FMC Premier Selection Moelleux, a sumptuous wooded Chenin Blanc that managed to match the rich onion soup as well as the dessert; and a bottle of juicy Jordan Cobbler’s Hill (a red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc) to match the steak. It was a lovely relaxed evening free from any silly themed Valentine’s dishes – just good food and good wine.

 

HighTimberVDayMenu

 

HighTimberOysters

 

HighTimberOnionSoup

 

HighTimberVDaySteak

 

HighTimberKale

 

HighTimberVDayDessert

 

HighTimberWine

 

Apart from the main restaurant area. there is also a bar area tucked away to the left of the High Timber entrance; a climate-controlled cheese room which guests can visit to make their selection; and two private function rooms in the wine cellar. I have previously visited the cellar and sat in the smaller of the two rooms, surrounded by the rather spectacular wine collection, so when Nick’s 40th rolled around, I immediately thought of the larger function room at High Timber. The rooms themselves feel a little cosier than the main dining room and for smaller parties, it is hard to beat the novelty value of dining among the wine racks.  In conjunction with Neleen we decided on a budget per head and based on this we offered guests a limited a la carte menu.  Beforehand, Neleen asked me what Nick’s favourite amuse bouche would be and without hesitation I replied “skilpadjies” – a South African delicacy of lamb’s liver wrapped in caul fat and barbecued (the English equivalent would be faggots) – and that’s exactly what we got as an amuse bouche!  Starters included crottin goat’s cheese with beetroot, crispy walnuts & balsamic jelly; game terrine with  foie gras mousse and spiced fruit chutney; and cured salmon with lemon gel, pickled shallots. .  For mains, almost everybody else went for the 250g ribeye steak, but I chose the roasted halibut with smoked leeks, potato glass and chive butter sauce, a wonderful dish packed with flavour and given added crunch by the potato glass.  For dessert, I chose the apple tarte tatin which was a sticky caramelised marvel, and then I still found space to go to the cheese room to try a few cheese and put together a sharing plate of cheese for the table.  And after dinner, Neleen kindly let Nick entertain us all by doing sabrage on a few bottles of Champagne on the terrace, overlooking that wonderful view.

 

HightimberFunctionRoom

 

HighTimberWines1

 

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Hightimber40thTerrine

 

HighTImber40thSalmon

 

HighTimber40thgoatscheese

 

HighTimber40thHalibut

 

HightimberAppleTarteTatin

 

It’s not often that I have the pleasure of visiting Hight Timber during daylight hours (they are closed on weekends), but sometime during the glorious summer we had last year, we went for an early dinner with friends and got to sit outside on the terrace, watching the passing parade of people streaming across the Millennium Bridge and the bustling river traffic of sightseeing boats and Thames Clippers.  While we sipped our Jordan Chardonnay, we snacked on biltong (£10.00/100g) – South African air-dried beef which High Timber make themselves, so it is beautifully moist and closer to bresaola than the tough strips that some  This time I started with an awesome summery octopus and chorizo salad with semi-dried tomatoes – packed with flavour and a feast for the eyes.  One friend had the biltong croquettes (£7,50), while another had a strip of pork belly with a spicy peanut glaze, radishes and pork crackling – but Nick won the gorgeousness prize with his seasonal crab-stuffed tomato on avocado puree (a dish that I need to try and recreate at home!).  For mains, almost everybody had steaks while I tried the slow-roast shoulder of lamb with Turkish aubergine ragout, tzatziki and crispy flat bread – an impressive portion of fall-apart tender lamb well matched by the spicy aubergine and cooling tzatziki.  Nick and I also shared Alex’s very mixed-up salad (£7.95) – the salad for people who cant see the point big piles of green leaves – it has a bit of everything including nuts, croutons, tomatoes and (for a surcharge) you can even add biltong!  Our dessert, sadly not pictured was (of course) Don Pedros all round!

 

HighTimberBiltong

 

HighTimberOctopusSalad

 

HighTimberPorkBelly

 

HighTimberTomatoCrab

 

HighTimberLamb

 

HighTimberSalad

 

I have also had the pleasure of joining Neleen and her team for New Year’s Eve celebrations.  On this occasion it was a set menu of 6 courses plus a glass of Champagne for £95 – here’s what we had.  After kicking off proceedings with a glass of Moet & Chandon, we started with crab & smoked salmon cannelloni with lemon, avocado, & cucumber. This was a clever dish of crab rolled inside some smoked salmon to create a “canneloni” and the richness of the seafood was nicely balanced by the lemon gel and crunch of the cucumber dice. Up next was one of my all-time favourite things – duck rillette on toast with prune preserve and beetroot shoots.  The rillette was perfectly rich and creamy and a good match for the prune preserve.  This was followed by a palate cleanser of lemon sorbet with lime leaf mousse before we moved on to the main event:  sirloin of Cumbrian Beef with Anna potato and Black Winter Truffle.  The steak was beautifully cooked – juicy, flavourful and tender, and the rich truffle jus was heavenly when mopped up with the potato.  The dessert consisted of poached pear, almond crumble and cinnamon ice cream – nice clean flavours and neither overly sweet nor overly rich. The final flourish was coffee and petit fours consisting of an Amarula ganache truffle and a vanilla macaron, before we headed out onto the terrace, Champagne glasses charged, to await the New year’s fireworks over Westminster.  Because of the bend in the river, your view is somewhat obscured by buildings, but you still get a flavour of the display and standing on the terrace, glass in hand, before retiring to the bar for a nightcap is a lot more civilised than jostling with the crowds on the South Bank.  I’ll be back!

 

HighTimberNYEBubbles

 

HightimberNYESalmon

 

HighTimberNYERillettes

 

HighTimberNYESteak

 

HighTimberNYEDessert

 

HighTimberNYEFireworks

 

HighTimberNYEBubbles2

 

If your idea of fine dining includes foams and smears on the plate, then you are unlikely to be a huge fan of High Timber where the focus tends to be on proper food prepared without too much fuss.  There is nothing ground-breakingly novel going on here menu-wise, but the quality of the food is consistently high, and for South Africans like me the touches of home (biltong, Don Pedros) are a delight. Neleen is almost always on the premises, overseeing proceedings, greeting guests and making spot-on wine recommendations – and as I have said many times, there is no substitute for a firm hand running front of house. I am also always struck by the number of customers who are regulars, which is a testament to the fact that High Timber is doing something very right – in a city with as many restaurants as London, repeat custom is a rare and beautiful thing.

If you enjoyed the restaurant photography in this post, why not sign up for one of the two workshops I am running in Spring 2015 with my fellow-blogger Meeta? I will be teaching camera basics and low light/restaurant photography in Vienna on 17-18 April, and in London on 1-2 May. There are still a few spaces available so register now!

High Timber
8 High Timber Street
London
EC4V 3PA
Tel.: +44 (0) 020 7248 1777
E-mail: info@hightimber.com

 

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  1. Dannii @ Hungry Healthy Happy says

    February 24, 2015 at 6:18 pm

    Wow, it has some stunning views and the food looks delicious.

    Reply
  2. Hannelie de Wet says

    February 25, 2015 at 5:31 am

    I had the privilege to be spoiled by Neleen and her excellent crew at High Timber two years ago. A visit to London will never be complete without treating myself with a meal there!

    Reply
  3. Fede says

    February 25, 2015 at 9:49 am

    It really looks good…! should be on my list of places to try asap

    Reply
  4. Michelle @ Greedy Gourmet says

    February 25, 2015 at 2:59 pm

    Wow, Jeanne. Epic post!

    I feel like a rabbit caught in the headlights as well when someone asks me what my favourite restaurant is. Each time I come to town, I visit a new place and some meals are more memorable than others. Even worse is when I forget the names of places, which by that point people probably think I’m a pretentious tosser. Oh well.

    Yay, for great South African restaurants in the city. Maybe one day I’ll go.

    Reply
  5. Sam says

    February 25, 2015 at 3:11 pm

    I’ve only been to High Timber once, even though I work quite nearby. But on that visit, I met Neleen and she took us down to the cellar and talked us through the wines. She’s incredible! My friends and I (all Saffa’s!) loved our evening there. Great write up and fab pics as always Jeanne!

    Reply
  6. laura@howtocookgoodfood says

    February 25, 2015 at 7:03 pm

    A favourite restaurant is such a hard question to ask someone. I always get “what is your signature dish” even though I haven’t been a chef for a few years now! I don’t have a favourite restaurant, I find I keep booking places i haven’t been to before which means I don’t get to re-visit old faces. I think any restaurant that combines good food such as High timber with great front of house gets my vote and your photos emphasise this.

    Reply
  7. Jen says

    February 25, 2015 at 11:48 pm

    I can see why you like visiting so often and for special occasions, the food looks amazing.

    Reply
  8. Margot @ Coffee & Vanilla says

    February 26, 2015 at 11:38 am

    Sounds like you have found your favourite restaurant after all 🙂 The view is amazing, great place for any special occasion and love the photo of the champagne glass with bokeh effect (!)

    Reply
  9. kellie@foodtoglow says

    February 26, 2015 at 1:15 pm

    I have been in a few British South African owned-run restaurants and I am always struck by how friendly they are. No matter whether fine dining (like High Timber) or cafe (the lovely and highly-rated Caffeine Drip in Edinburgh) they are comfortable and enjoyable places to be. This is a great write-up, Jeanne. And superb images. What a setting too!

    Reply
  10. Zirkie says

    March 1, 2015 at 5:41 pm

    The food looks extraordinary! Love it to hear of successful South Africans!

    Reply
  11. Emily Leary says

    March 4, 2015 at 9:32 am

    It looks amazing! Stunning presentation but, as you say, proper food rather than smears and speckles! Lovely.

    Reply
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Jeanne | Stylish food & travel


Are you a cook... or a baker?
I fall firmly into

Are you a cook... or a baker? 
I fall firmly into the "cook" category. Baking is too precise, too fiddly - and best left to those with an affinity for it, I always say! But every now and then, only a cake will do. Say, for example... when you celebrate your blog's SIXTEENTH birthday!! 🎉🍾 Yes, last month Cooksister.com turned sweet sixteen, and to celebrate I baked this sticky spiced plum upside down cake. It's a very forgiving recipe and it's worth every single calorie 😁. Click on the link in my profile to see the recipe or save this post so you can find it later: https://www.cooksister.com/2020/06/sticky-spiced-plum-upside-down-cake.html

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"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

Anybody else got Lockdown Itchy Feet Syndrome...?? If it isn't an official disorder,  it certainly should be!

I have always been a dreamer, a planner, an explorer. Few things excite me more than stepping onto the soil of a country I have not visited before. When I am going through tough personal times, my go-to self-help therapy has always been to arrange a trip - to throw off the metaphorical bow lines and sail away to a new adventure. 
But then... Corona 😞  I can honestly say that I am enjoying working from home; enjoying having the time to run every day; enjoying cooking proper meals; enjoying my own company; enjoying the lack of FOMO. But OH MAN, I miss travel. 
This image was taken 2 years ago in St George's, Grenada - my first visit to the Caribbean but  certainly not my last. This photo has me dreaming of the day I can throw off those bow lines and travel again... How are you dealing with the lack of travel during this time?

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500 g Brussels sprouts, trimmed, halved and cooked (I roast mine in a hot oven)
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Jeanne Horak is a freelance food and travel writer; recipe developer and photographer. South African by birth and Londoner by choice, Jeanne has been writing about food and travel on Cooksister since 2004. She is a popular speaker on food photography and writing has also contributed articles, recipes and photos to a number of online and print publications. Jeanne has also worked with a number of destination marketers to promote their city or region. Please get in touch to work with her Read More…

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Privacy & Cookies Policy

Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary
Always Enabled

Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.

Non-necessary

Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.