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Ryan’s Kitchen, Franschhoek

by Jeanne Horak on April 22, 2012 14 Comments in South Africa restaurants

RyansKitchen © J Horak-Druiff 2012

 

It’s a small world after all, sing the characters at Disneyland.  And although most of what Disney purveys is a fairy tale, they are spot-on in this regard.  At the end of February, I went skiing in the French Alps.  One night we went out to drinks with the friend of a friend who was shortly to travel to South African and wanted to chat to me about restaurants that she should visit.  Most of the places she wanted to visit were exactly what I would have suggested, but one totally unfamiliar name cropped up:  Ryan’s Kitchen in Franschhoek.  I had never heard of it but she assured me that she had been there on a previous trip and that it was definitely worth a return visit – information which I filed under “for future reference”.  But not two weeks later, out of the blue, I received an e-mail from (you guessed it) Ryan himself, inviting me to a chef’s table lunch the restaurant was hosting for bloggers.  I explained that I’d love to attend, but that it was unfortunately two days after I fly back to London – but I did mention that I had been told about the restaurant recently in the French Alps!  And a week after that Ryan tweeted me to say that he was on the terrace having a drink with my acquaintance from the French Alps.  Small does not begin to describe it!

When a slot in my busy SA trip schedule unexpectedly opened up, I leapt at the chance of visiting the restaurant in the sparkling company of two of my oldest blog friends Johanna and Kit. I had been told that I may as well forget about getting a table but as Ryan explained, the restaurant is predominantly a dinner destination, so if you can get to Franschoek for lunch like we did, you will probably get a table relatively easily.  Situated in the Rusthof guest house on Main Road, Franschhoek, the restaurant is remarkable for its small size, seating only about 50 people in the cosy indoor and terrace areas combined. All the indoor tables have a view of the gleaming open-plan kitchen where you can see Ryan’s calm demeanour an hands-on attention to detail as you dine.  Ryan Smith is a native Capetonian who has trained and worked all over the world, including France, the UK, the USA, the middle-East, Russia, as well as a stint on international cruise ships.  When he returned to South Africa to open his restaurant, he was determined to serve modern South African cuisine, driven by seasonal, indigenous ingredients with local historical and cultural references, but with modern international flair and ingenuity.  The end result is a fusion of European ideas and South African ingredients, with a detour through a Heston Blumenthal-style laboratory.

 

RyansKitchenLounge

RyansKitchenDiningRoom

RyansKitchenTables

As it was 35C on the day of our visit (!) we chose to sit on the terrace to take advantage of whatever breeze there was.  The menu is the same for lunch and dinner and features both a small a la carte selection (3 starters, 3 mains, 3 desserts) at R255 for 2 courses or R325 for 3 courses; as well as their 7-course Taste of Africa tasting menu (R450 without matching wines or R650 with matching wines.  The wine list features a number of wines from local Franschhoek estates and prices start at R90 for a bottle, running all the way up to R500 for a bottle.  There is a good selection under R200 as well as about a dozen wines by the glass.  I started with a glass of Moreson Miss Molly sparkling wine and shared a bottle of Mulderbosch Chein Blanc.

Let me say from the outset that the food at Ryan’s Kitchen is probably not going to be to everybody’s taste.  If you are a meat and two veg kinda guy, or can’t be dealing with foams and frozen soups, the you will probably be happier elsewhere.  But if you are a sucker for a little bit of food theatre like me, then you will be in your element. The first sign that this is no ordinary winelands restaurant is the arrival of the amuse bouche platter.  These beautiful individual bamboo platters came laden with a spicy tomato foam topped with a crisp basil leaf; a slim tube of butternut and ginger juice; a cheese and potato puff on spicy tomato cream; and a larger test tube of frozen basil juice, furiously foaming and trailing wisps of “smoke”.  My favourite was the little dish of spicy tomato foam which was light, intensely tomatoey, and as light as a feather; closely followed by the cheese and potato puff.  The butternut and ginger juice was intensely-coloured and flavoured and I loved drinking it through a straw.  But although the frozen basil juice was visually the most impressive, it was the least exciting, taste-wise – just cold, salty and deeply basil-flavoured.  Still, it was an impressive start to the meal, setting the tone for what was to come.

 

RyansKitchenBreadWine

RyansKitchenAmuseBouche

 

As a starter, I chose the tuna carpaccio with apple and leek roulade, Autumn greens and grated lime.  This was not only beautifully presented but also a surprisingly generous portion of fish, under a blanket of cress, cucumber and green apple matchsticks, sprinkled  with the dried grated lime with a cucumber granita on the side.  What I loved about this dish was that it really let the flavour of the excellent fish shine through, rather than overwhelm it with dressings of other strident flavours.  The apple and cucumber provided a lovely crunchy counterpoint to the yielding fish, and the unusual apple and leek roulade was subtle and delicious. The other popular starter at our table was Cape Malay curried pickled fish done Ryan’s way.  Ryans take on this very typical and uniquely South African dish involved chunks of the perfectly pickled fish on one end of the plate, crunchy pickled baby vegetables on the other end and in between, a sugar and seaweed cannelloni – a crunchy sugar tube the colour of nori seaweed, filled with gently seaweed-flavoured espuma.  I thought this was a pretty brave dish – not every diner will be doing handstands of delight at the thought of the sugar/seaweed combination – but the usually sceptical Nick was intrigued by it.  I thought the pickled fish was heavenly, although I must confess to not being convinced that the sugar tube and seaweed combo worked.  I did love the visual appeal though.

 

Ryan'sKitchenTunaCarpaccio

Ryan'sKitchenPickledFish


Ryan'sKitchenMissMolly

For mains, it was another two-horse race at our table:  half of us (including me) ordered the linefish, hot smoked with smoked potato puree, pancetta wafers and braised baby fennel.  The fish of the day was seabass, but if we were expecting the fish itself to be hot-smoked, we were in for a surprise.  Our fish arrived under gorgeous individual glass cloches, hazy with smoke – from burning barrels, as we were later told.  As the cloches were lifted, we got the unmistakeable aroma of woodsmoke – possible one of my favourite and most evocative smells in the world.  I was already smitten. The silky potato puree did indeed hold the lingering undertone of smoke; the fish was just cooked to the point of opaqueness and took on the smoke flavour of the pleasingly crisp pancetta; and the baby fennel was cooked to the point of caremalisation where the aniseedy flavours morph into something altogether more mellow and quite exquisite with the fish.  Quite possibly one of the best fish dishes I have ever eaten.  The rest of the table (i.e the boys!) opted for the springbok shank, sliced springbok loin, black peppercorn and pumpkin purees; and confit mooli.  My first impression was that I have seldom seen more beautifully cooked loin – perfectly pink almost all the way through with a seared exterior, but it was the meltingly tender shank that truly blew me away, slow-cooked to a rich, concentrated, almost caramelly depth of flavour and fork-tender. The purees were richly flavoured and worked well with the slightly peppery loin – and llike all the dishes, the plating was meticulous and beautiful.

 

Ryan'sKitchenFishCloche

Ryan'sKitchenFishOpen

 

Ryan'sKitchenSpringbok

The dessert selection comprised two sweet desserts and a cheese selection – and in the interests of scientific research we ordered all of them!  I did not try it, but the caramelised pineapple galette with granadilla Chantilly and ganadilla parfait looked heavenly, especially the perfectly caramelised chunks of pineapple. I shared my dessert with Johanna: plum textures comprising a roasted plum, plum mousse, plum jelly, plum cassonade and nut brown-butter ice-cream.  This was a great combination of flavours and textures, centred on the theme of seasonal plums.  The jelly, the mousse and the roasted plum all retained a pleasing tartness, while the cassonade added both a caramelly sweetness as well as a contrasting crunch – and I loved the plating. I also shared the cheese selection (not pictured) with Johanna, which included beetroot Cheddar; Camembert; cumin Boerenkaas; Gorgonzola; and Huguenot Cheddar, accompanied by turmeric pickled cucumber, beetroot, yoghurt and baby onion compote. The cheese course was the least impressive of the dishes we had (although I did love the turmeric pickled cucumber), although perfectly adequate. Maybe it just suffered by comparison!

 

Ryan'sKitchenPineapple

 

Ryan'sKitchenPlumTextures

And then with our coffee, just when we thought we could not eat anything else, arrived some rather spectacular petits fours – in fact, if you skipped dessert, there is more than enough sweetness to keep you happy!  First up I tried the chocolate malva puddings with beetroot caramel. These were about the size of financiers, with a channel in the top for the vividly-coloured and earthy-flavoured caramel.  I loved this take on malva pudding that traditionally gets soaked in a caramelly sauce.  Another big hit was the rooibos tea jelly with a lavender custard and crumble topping. The jelly was deliciously un-sweet and had a strong flavour of rooibos tea, while the custard added a creamy floral note.  The carrot cake “Turkish delight” consisted of jelly cubes the consistency of Turkish delight, but with the carrotty, cinamonny flavours of carrot cake.  The general consensus was that this was a brave experiment, but not an improvement on traditional Turkish delight flavours. Still – the whole selection made for an impressive and substantial plate of petits fours and a wonderful end to the meal.

 

IMG_7440 - edited

 

Ryan'sKitchenRyan

 

The front of house is very ably handled by Lana, Ryan’s wife, and service was smooth and professional throughout.  Ryan himself came out to chat to us after the service and is personable with a hugely infectious enthusiasm for food.  His attention to detail was evident in every plate, and I was very impressed by his unusual and assured cooking style.  I have long said that we need more chefs willing to cook South African classics with a modern European twist.  Although Ryan’s creative expermentation may not always be to everybody’s taste, I loved the fact that he is trying something a little different in the Franschhoek, arguably the South African home of classic French cookery.  And as I found out during another meal on this trip, there is no substitute for an engaged and hands-on chef patron who is cooking his own food in his own kitchen.  My verdict?  Go now, before the world outside Franschhoek finds out about this treasure.

Liked:  the funky amuse bouche; the beautiful and innovative plating
Disliked:
nothing – at worst, the cheese plate was uninspired.
On a scale of 1 to 10: 9

 

Ryan’s Kitchen
12 Huguenot Road
Franschhoek

(Dinner Mon – Sat; Lunch Fri & Sat) 

Email: info@ryanskitchen.co.za
Tel: +27 (0) 21 876 4598

 

This post is part of a series called Sundays in South Africa.  The series started as a way of providing visitors with some ideas of what and where to eat during and after the FIFA World Cup 2010 which took place in June/July 2010 in my home country of South Africa!  Although the tournament is over now, I still try to post a review of somewhere South African, or a South African recipe on Sundays as culinary inspiration for visitors.  Click here for previous posts in the series.

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  1. becca (playdohandpoo) says

    April 22, 2012 at 8:54 pm

    wow beautiful photos of delicious looking food. makes my mouth water!

    Reply
  2. Krista says

    April 23, 2012 at 3:45 am

    What a fascinating experience!! So many interesting textures and flavors and SIGHTS! I’m so glad you did it. 🙂

    Reply
  3. Sally - My Custard Pie says

    April 23, 2012 at 6:09 am

    I visited Franshoek in 1997 – travelling from Saudi Arabia. I thought I was in heaven – French restaurants alternating with antique shops. I even remember the name of the restaurant where we ate – Le Ballon Rouge. The food was superb and the service, everywhere we went in the Cape, unbelievably friendly. You’ve brought back happy memories and a wish to return some day – maybe even to Ryan’s Kitchen.

    Reply
  4. johanna says

    April 23, 2012 at 7:50 am

    and what a wonderful meal it was, we really had a lot to eat on that trip, but that seabass is very very fresh in my memory! and what a gorgeous black backdrop you’ve got for many of your pictures… and those sparkles… wonderful 😉
    great venue for meeting up with kit and if i ever am passing by franshoek again, i will definitely book one of their beautiful guest rooms!

    Reply
  5. Firefly says

    April 23, 2012 at 9:04 am

    Parhaps just a tad to fancy and steep in price for me. But if I could I would love to try it out though

    Reply
  6. Sylvie @ Gourmande in the Kitchen says

    April 23, 2012 at 9:26 am

    Oh what I wouldn’t give to eat there after seeing all that! Craving some of that ginger butternut juice now, I might have to try and make something like that.

    Reply
  7. Denise says

    April 23, 2012 at 9:49 am

    How I love Franschoek! I always said I wanna get married there some day;) My favorite restaurant was Haute Cabriere, those wines……..
    Have never heard of (or been to) Ryan’s Kitchen, but it looks perfect. Definitely something I need to try if I ever visit Franschoek again!

    Reply
  8. Caro de Waal says

    April 23, 2012 at 11:43 am

    Great overview and pics of this truly fantastic foodie spot in Franshhoek.

    Reply
  9. John Batt says

    April 23, 2012 at 12:38 pm

    The food here looks absolutely beautiful, got me very hungry!
    I’ve heard a few recommendations of Ryan’s Kitchen myself but this has got me really wanting to go now! He also sounds like a really nice guy!

    Reply
  10. Andrew says

    April 23, 2012 at 1:12 pm

    Certainly some food theatre there! Wonderful presentation beautifully captured by you I should add.

    Reply
  11. Lael Hazan @educatedpalate says

    April 23, 2012 at 1:57 pm

    I want to go! Love the commentary.
    When I was little I got stuck in “It’s a Small World” in CA. It felt like we were in there for hours. Of course, it turned out to be one of my children’s favorite rides of all time.

    Reply
  12. Jamie says

    April 23, 2012 at 2:36 pm

    In the interest of scientific research HA HA HA! Love it! And I love small world surprises like your story and I have noticed that in the world of food I have been involved with so many of those “small world” coincidences! And wow I know where I’ll be eating if and when I get back to CT! The food looks stupendous! Gorgeous, crisp, bright and the flavors sound amazing!

    Reply
  13. Rosa says

    April 23, 2012 at 6:02 pm

    A grest review. Those dishes are magnificent and so tempting. A wonderful restaurant.
    Cheers,
    Rosa

    Reply
  14. Colleen says

    April 23, 2012 at 10:40 pm

    Oh …..you have me wishing in the strongest way to be there right now. What a fab write up and review. Gorgeous photos. Felt as though i were sitting at that table with you 🙂 It sounds really fascinating and somewhere that one should really try, even once, just for the experience. Well done Jeanne! So glad you could do all this fab eating and ordering in the interest of scientific research. I know it was for no other reason at all 😉 xx

    Reply
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"Spring fever, my heart's beating fast. Get up, ge "Spring fever, my heart's beating fast. Get up, get out, Spring is everywhere" - Elvis Presley

What better way to celebrate the day when the clocks go forward to British Summer Time than with  a glorious photo of St Paul's Cathedral shyly peeping out from a cloud of pink cherry blossoms against a perfect blue sky! 🌸🌞

London is awash in glorious blossoms at the moment, from Greenwich Park in the east to Kew Gardens in the west, and the fun part is trying to catch each type of tree just when the blossoms are at their best.

The cherry plums have been exploding into clouds of small white blossoms and sweet fragrance for a few weeks already; and the early flowering cherry trees, camellias and magnolias are coming into their own right now. Plus we still have the late-flowering cherries, rhododendrons and wisteria to look forward to!

Do you have a favourite Spring tree or park for blossoms in London? Let me know in the comments 🌺

And please remember to share, save or like my posts if you want to see more of me in your feed 🙏
"The essence of being human is that one does not s "The essence of being human is that one does not seek perfection" 

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But so often in life, things fall short of the perfection we imagined - seemingly perfect relationships fail, cakes look nothing like the picture in the book, clothes that looked good on the internet look ridiculous on our bodies, the wrong turn we took meant we never got to our planned destination.

Falling short of perfection is part of life. The big question is how you deal with it. Do you throw your hands up in despair and berate yourself for failure? Or do you find the positives in the imperfect outcomes of your plans? 

This photo taken almost exactly 4 years ago was meant to be a "perfect" Instagram shot of me in my signature pose, on a perfect sunny day on snowy ski slopes. Instead, as @explorista snapped the photo, our ski instructor decided to throw handfuls of snow at me - but as it turns out, this "imperfect" shot turned out to be my favourite of the day 😍

Do you find joy in life's imperfections?
What's your favourite way to eat cauliflower? Up What's your favourite way to eat cauliflower? 

Up until about a week ago I would have said cauliflower cheese... but all that changed when I made this low-carb cauliflower steak Welsh rarebit... I first made cauliflower steaks years ago, before cauliflower started enjoying its 15 minutes of fame, as a main course for vegetarian friends. But it wasn't till last week when I wanted to make Welsh rarebit for St David's day and discovered I had no bread that it struck me that cauli steaks would make the perfect base for Welsh rarebit! It's totally indulgent - like pouring a beery cheese fondue over your cauliflower - and totally addictive. You can find the full recipe in the link in my profile,  or SAVE this post for basic instructions! Remember to tag me if you try it -I'd love to see 😊

* Slice two 1cm steaks vertically from the middle of a large cauliflower, season and fry in  butter and oil till browning slightly.

* Oven bake for 10 mins at 200C while you mix grated cheddar, melted butter, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and beer. (The Duvel Belgian ale works a charm, BTW!).

* Spread the cheese mix generously over the 2 steaks and pop under a medium grill until golden and bubbly

You're welcome 🤩
Dyed Gwyl Dewi Hapus - or happy St David's Day if Dyed Gwyl Dewi Hapus - or happy St David's Day if you don't speak Welsh 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

March 1 is the day on which the Welsh people celebrate their patron saint, St David, and one of their traditions is to wear a daffodil, the national flower of Wales. Here are five daffodil facts to impress your Welsh friends:

🌼 There's no difference between a daffodil and a narcissus. Daffodil (or jonquil) is simply the common name for members of the Narcissus genus, so all daffodils are narcissi.

🌼 There is only one species if daffodil that is native to the UK - Narcissus Pseudonarcissus, or wild daffodils. You can spot them by the fact that their outer 6 petals are a paler yellow than the central trumpet, and they are usually smaller than the showy, giant yellow commercially grown daffs. 

🌼 It's not entirely certain how the daffodil came to be the national flower of Wales - one theory is that they are one of the few flowers in bloom on 1 March. Another is that the daffodil is less... antisocial to wear than the other Welsh national symbol, the leek 🤣

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Are daffodils your favourite Spring flower? Or do you prefer something else?
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📸 by @tasteofsavoie
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I have learnt a few things during lockdown. I have learnt that I am more comfortable spending long periods alone than I had ever imagined; that I suffer a lot more from FOMO (fear of missing out!) than I would like to admit; and that pre-Covid I spent rude sums of money on commuting and barista coffee...! 

I also learnt that although I miss travel and social events and meals out, it is often the smaller things that you miss most acutely - the freedom to call up a friend you haven't seen in a while and inviting them over. Hugging (or even seeing) my family. And grabbing a macchiato and a Pret Bircher muesli on the way to work. Don't ask me why, but it became a small obsession of mine to create a fakeaway Pret Bircher during lockdown - and I think I have succeeded! Here's how:

For 2 servings you will need:
100g rolled oats
200ml milk or water
1 Tbsp sunflower seeds
1 Tbsp pumpkin seeds 
1 Tbsp shelled pistachio nuts
1 Tbsp dried cranberries 
2 small apples
175g plain yoghurt
Honey
Pomegranate rails

Mix the oats, seeds, nuts and cranberries together then add the milk/water and a pinch of salt. Mix well, cover and refrigerate overnight. 

When ready to serve, grate the apples and mix them in with the oats and yoghurt (add a little extra milk to loosen if needed). Stir in honey to taste and serve topped with pomegranate arils and pistachios. Full recipe and more photos are available now on the blog - click the live link in my profile.

Did you try any fakeaway recipes over lockdown? Please let me know in the comments - I would love to hear about it!
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Jeanne Horak is a freelance food and travel writer; recipe developer and photographer. South African by birth and Londoner by choice, Jeanne has been writing about food and travel on Cooksister since 2004. She is a popular speaker on food photography and writing has also contributed articles, recipes and photos to a number of online and print publications. Jeanne has also worked with a number of destination marketers to promote their city or region. Please get in touch to work with her Read More…

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