Jerusalem artichoke soup – love at first slurp

by Jeanne on January 31, 2006

in Recipes

JasoupDid I ever mention that I’m not from around these parts?  :P  Well, erm, possibly yes.  And that means that a lot of food that I am now eating was entirely new to me five years ago when I arrived.  I mean, to give you an idea, a well-known store in my hometown was in the late 1990s labelling pak choi as savoy cabbage!  And the thing is, nobody really knew the difference, so they just accepted it – me included.  Boy, was I in for a surprise when I got to London and dioscovered what savoy cabbage actually looks like!!  Some of the other things that we never really ate were parsnips, swedes and celeriac.  And one other vegetable that I had heard of but had no idea what it was or tasted like was the Jerusalem artichokes. 

Now Nick and I have always been rather fond of eating globe artichokes, boiled and then dipped leaf by leaf into garlic butter (for me) or vinaigrette (for him), drawing each leaf through our teeth to get every scrap of delicious flesh off them and finally pulling out the choke to get to the meaty heart below.  Globe artichokes (cynara scolymus) are a relative of the thistle family and are in fact the buds of the plant – if you can resist eating them and leave one to flower, they end up making huge mauve blooms.  [Hey!  And we aren’t the only ones being misled – a site selling stock photos is flogging this as a photo of an artichoke flower – and it’s actually quite obviously a protea, the South African national flower!!!] Until we got over here to London, we had a vague idea that the difference between Jerusalem and globe artichokes lay in some small variation in the shape or the colour, but that they were basically variations on a theme.  Hah.  Funny how wrong you can be!

Ja2The Jerusalm artichoke is a misrepresentation rather like the Holy Roman Empire – all the parts of its name are misleading.  It is neither an artichoke, nor does it have anything to do with Jerusalem!  In fact, it does not even belong to the same botanical family as globe artichokes.  The Jerusalem artichoke actually a type of sunflower (helianthus tuberosis) – or, more correctly, the tuberous roots of a type of sunflower.  And as for the Jerusalem bit, there is speculation that this is a corruption of the Italian word for sunflower, girasol.  This is also the reason why they are sometimes called sunchokes, I would imagine.

Our misnamed, knobbly friend is a native of North America and was apparently growing wild along the eastern seaboard from Georgia to Nova Scotia.  The explorer Samuel de Champlain found them being grown by native Americans in Massachussets in 1605 and took them back to Europe with him where they were sold in France as topinambours.  They were popular in Europe but later fell out of favour as they were thought to cause leprosy (!!), probably because of their gnarled exterior which rather resembles a giant ginger root.

Ja1

See – here’s a dejected-looking Jerusalem artichoke wrongly accused of causing leprosy!

:P

I would say a far more troublesome characteristic is described in the following passage written by John Goodyer in the early 1600s:  "But in my judgement, which way soever they may be drest and eaten, they stir up and cause a filthie, loathesome, stinking winde with the bodie, thereby causing the belly to bee much pained and tormented, and are a meat more fit for swine than men."  Oh dear!  Time to fire the entire marketing team, I would say.  The reason behind this is that unlike the potato (where the carbohydrates consist of amylose and amylopectin), the Jerusalem artichoke’s starch is in the form inulin, a polysaccahirde which is not easily digestible by everyone.  But the good news is that cooking does go some way to alleviate this problem…  Another benefit of storing starch as inulin is that Jerusalm artichokes are very diabetic-friendly, and apparently Jerusalem artichoke flour is good not only for diabetics but also people with a wheat allergy (Shauna take note!).

So what can you do with your tubers?  Well, they can be eaten almost any way you like:  raw, fried, baked, boiled, mashed… Here are some ideas to get you started.  As for me, I decided that my first foray would be soup and in preparation, I peeled the ‘chokes (although you don’t have to) and chopped them up.  You expect their consistency to be like a potato but nothing could be further from the truth – they are crunchy in much the same way as radishes are, and a quick nibble on a raw piece revealed no artichoke taste, not to my tastebuds at any rate. Oh well.   Dumped them in a pot together with the rest of the vegetables (see recipe below) and simmered them.  And about halfway through the cooking time, the most wonderful nutty, earthy smell started to emanate from the pot.  I could not believe that the innocuous little chunks I’d put in the pot earlier could produce that smell, but there was no denying it:  the hint of artichoke was definitely there. 

While making the soup I also chopped tome parsley from my little windowsill herb garden and fried a chopped rasher of smoked bacon till crispy, so when the soup was finally ready, I was waiting for it with my garnishes.    But the proof, as they say, is in the pudding so the moment of truth came when I tasted the soup.  It was extraordinary:  creamy without being too rich, comforting without being too boring – and very definitely tasting like artichokes!   I can also recommend the smoky bacon as garnish for the soup as it perfectly offsets the sweet, nutty flavour of the soup.  Congratulated myself heartily on my wonderful discovery and wondered why I had never bothered to eat these before – apparently they grow easily and well in South Africa, but we seem to have less of a tradition of eating them.  Maybe time to change that!  The recipe below is slightly adapted from one on Allrecipes.com – which stood out from the crowd mainly by virtue of the fact that it adds brandy to the soup :P

CREAM OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SOUP (for 4 as a man or 6 as a starter)

1 lb (about 500g) Jerusalem artichokes

2 medium or 1 large onion, minced

1 small clove garlic, crushed

1/4 cup of butter (I used half butter, half olive oil]

2 potatoes

1Tbsp brandy

1Tbsp all-purpose flour

3 cups chicken broth

3/4 cup heavy whipping cream [I probably used about half of this]

Salt and pepper to taste

chopped parsley and crispy bacon bits to garnish

Peel (if you like) the Jerusalem artichokes and chop roughly.  Peel and dice the potatoes, mince the onions and crush the garlic.  Heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat until frothing, then add the onions, garlic, potatoes and artichokes.  Cook covered on low heat for about 10 minutes.  Uncover and cook for a further 10 minutes.

Stir in the brandy anf dlour and cook for about a minute.  Gradually stir in two cups of stock, stirring continuously until the soup boils.  Simmer until all the ‘chokes and potatoes are soft enough to mash (probably about 10 minutes).

Transfer to a food processor (or whip out your trusty Braun wand mixer!) and puree until smooth.  Add the last cup of stock if needed (I certainly needed it – the consistency was really thick!)

Return to pan, add cream and season well.  Reheat, spoon into bowls and garnish with a blob of thick cream, a handful of chopped parsley and a few crispy bacon bits.  Serve with crusty bread to mop up the last delicious drop.

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{ 20 comments… read them below or add one }

melissa_cookingdiva February 1, 2006 at 12:44 am

This would also be delicious served as a sauce to accompany grilled chicken breast. Yum!

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Craig February 1, 2006 at 6:07 pm

Yummy ! I am a great fan of globe artichoke (when you can get them). We also eat them like you and Nick – me with vinegar (pref Balsamic), and Lois with Butter. What is also really nice is to prepare them the day before, and marinade them overnight in the fridge in a vinaigrette. I must admit that I thought it was a practical joke the first time I was served an artichoke.
I have never eaten Jerusalem artichoke’s – I don’t think that you get them in SA.

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Tania February 3, 2006 at 7:53 pm

A few years back, my mother planted a few Jerusalem artichoke plants in her back garden, mainly because of them being diabetic-friendly. Well, they’ve pretty much taken over the whole garden now! Every fall, we kids have to come over to help her pull them out and harvest the yummy tubers … and the next year there’s even more! So you may not want to plant them in your little window garden …
The soup sounds amazing, by the way. I can imagine how well the smoky bacon would suit the sweet, creamy sunchokes … mmmm ….

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Vivilicious February 3, 2006 at 7:56 pm

I love jerusalem artichokes and buy them whenever I see them. By the way, I tried the Black Beluga lentils as you suggested and they were delish! Thanks again.

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shauna February 3, 2006 at 11:49 pm

Hey, thanks for the heads up. I can’t say I’ve ever seen Jerusalem artichoke flour around here, but I’m always happy to see a new gluten-free flour!

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Christina February 10, 2006 at 10:47 am

I also had never heard of them and have subsequently been won over by Jerusalem artichokes since arriving in the UK. They make a fantastic mash with a third potatoes and some crushed garlic and a garnish of cheese.

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Jeanne February 12, 2006 at 8:41 pm

Hi Melissa
Mmm, I actually though while I was cooking that if you left it thicker, it would be a great mash for serving stuff on as well. Must try out the sauce idea – thanks!
Hi Craig
Mmmm, yes, globe artichokes. They are a great indulgence of ours. And as for Jerusalem artichokes, you shoudl try and grow your own – they seem to thrive in climates similar to South Africa! Can’t understand why they’re not available…
Hi Tania
That’s interresting – I’ve also read on the Net that the plants can get out of control. Can’t imagine anything nicer that these delicious babies growing out of control in my garden!!
Hi Viv
Now that I’ve discovered the ‘chokes, I’ll make sure to buy and cook them whenevr I see them. And glad you liked the lentils too – it’s my favourite quick, easy comfot supper!
Hi Shauna
Can’t say I’ve seen it here either, but then to be fair, I haven’t looked. But as you say, nice to know it exists and it’s good for coeliacs :-)
HI CHristina
What is it with the Southern hemisphere and Jerusalem artichokes?? If they grow so happily in the US, then surely they should grow in SA/NZ?? Stuff like butternut squash does… Maybe time to start a small growing operation – world domination beckons!! ;-)

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jacquin February 25, 2006 at 4:55 am

The recipe sounds wonderful. Will try it this weekend. Had to special order j.a. from my local market, but he did get some. They are not well known here in Oregon- but they are common in California. They are like little rabbits- because they multiply- but easy to dig, and the flowers are very attractive.

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cameradawktor February 25, 2006 at 5:14 am

I love, love artichoke but am sorry to admit I’ve never tried Jerusalem artichokes, this sounds wonderful, I’ll have to try it sometime!

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Peter Hammerton February 17, 2007 at 1:22 pm

I grow Jerusalem artichokes here in Christchurch in Dorset, and have just planted next years crop so hopefully nest Winter will have loads again so if interested please keep in touch as when they are ready should have several kilos to sell. Not expensive like the shops,supermarkets or greengrocers
Peter

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TexasTitch September 14, 2007 at 7:39 pm

Yes, Jerusalem artichokes grow perfectly well in South Africa! I grew them in our garden in the Eastern Cape. They were delicious in soups, and roasted next to the joint of meat, and served with a boozey white sauce. I often used to just microwave them, but had to be careful I didn’t “nuke” the tubers for too long or the insides would collapse. I think maybe the reason they are not more commonly available in South Africa is their somewhat disastrous “windy” effects on one’s digestive system if one indulges too heartily!

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Sarah October 28, 2007 at 8:12 pm

I love Jerusalem artichokes and I can’t wait to try this soup! JA’s are a great prebiotic food, they encourage your friendly bacteria to grow. Delicious and very healthy!

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aforkfulofspaghetti February 2, 2008 at 1:43 pm

Funnily enough, Hugh F-W has a recipe for jerusalem artichoke soup today in the Guardian. I’m going to have to try them again – I love the taste, but last time I had them, they had – ahem – fairly catastrophic consequences!

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Caitlin February 18, 2008 at 11:35 pm

Actually true artichokes and jerusalem artichokes are members of the same botanical family – the asteraceae or sunflower family. There are also different colors of them – white and red are ones I know of. And their flowers are edible too, as are sunflowers.

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bea February 22, 2008 at 3:00 pm

I love discovering your soup version. Yum. I love everything in it! Cannot wait to try.

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caroline March 24, 2008 at 3:43 pm

How could i have missed this in South Africa I made this last night.I bought the Jerusalem artichokes in the Capucins market in Bordeaux on Saterday morning and gave it a try I am totally HOOKED… move over curried butternut soup!

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Marianne April 8, 2008 at 2:08 pm

I guess Jerusalem artichokes have hit the Aquitain region of France, that’s where Bordeaux is located, all at once. I am going to try your recipe tonight after having found the artichokes in Bordeaux on the weekend. Now that I have read all of the comments I am really anxious for dinner.
By the way another way of serving regular artichokes is with egg.
Hard-cook 4 to 5 eggs und mash them well. Add salt, pepper, vinegar and olive oil until you have a semi liquid paste which you scoop up with the artichoke leaves. Add some frech crusty bread and you have a great dinner.

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New Cook February 12, 2009 at 8:05 pm

I followed this recipe perfectly, and the soup I got at the end was not one I would make again. It was healthy and creamy, but I felt the taste was not that great. I am still looking for a good recipe for Jerusalem Artichokes, but I fear it might be that I just don’t like them that much.

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Helen July 18, 2010 at 11:37 am

I just make the soup with onion, garlic, pepper and chicken stock..cook and blend. Scrape rather than peel them. They don’t even need the cream or parsley. Yum. They are very happy growing in Australian gardens.

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GILLIAN July 17, 2011 at 9:30 am

HAVE USED ARTICHOKES FOR YEARS – CAN BE CALLED POOP SOUP.
MAKE IT VERY SIMILAR TO YOUR RRECIPE BUT NOT TOO MANY HERBS.
THE VERY BEST VARIATION IS TO ADD ABOUT THREE RAWNS OR SCALLOPS PER PERSON IN THE LAST MINUTE – OR YOU CAN HEAT THE BOWLS SERVED THE SOUP AND DROP IN THE SEAFOOD BEFORE TAKING TO THE TABLE. GREAT DIINER PARTY SOUP – ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS – GILLIAN

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