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What to do in Malmö – the Malmö Festival and beyond!

by Jeanne Horak on August 21, 2013 12 Comments in Sweden

MalmoTurningTorso2 © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

Do you know where in the world would you find:

  • a building called the Turning Torso
  • a museum featuring pacemakers and toothpicks
  • 400km of bike paths and cycle infrastructure
  • a restaurant called, erm, Bastard

Why in the Swedish city of Malmö, of course!

As I have mentioned in my previous two posts (a crayfish feast and our dinner at Bastard restaurant), last August I was invited to visit Malmö together with Su-Lin and Denise.  After a slightly bleary-eyed meeting at Gatwick airport, we all arrived in Malmö on Friday morning, ready to spend a weekend exploring the most culturally diverse diverse city in Sweden.   We stayed at the Scandic St Jörgen Hotel, literally a stone’s throw from Gustaf Adolf market square, which is where a lot of the festival action was happening.  The lobby is sleek and modern and reception generally friendly (except the lady who wanted to put Su-Lin and Denise together in one room when she realised that double rooms had been booked and paid for for each of them – an annoying and thankfully isolated incident).  The rooms have also been recently refurbished and are serene spaces of a huge size by European standards – far more like American hotel rooms – and the beds are massive and comfortable. The only meal we had at the hotel was breakfast – but oh what a breakfast it was.  Whatever your heart might desire, and then some – from pastries to cereals and yoghurt; from all sorts fresh fruit to cucumber, tomatoes and bell peppers; from a smorgasbord of cheese to eggs, bacon, tiny sausages, a plethora of crispbreads and (of course) shrimps and half a dozen kinds of herring!  I was in herring heaven.  Also, my new favourite breakfast detox drink:  blueberry “soup”.  I need to find a London supplier, or a recipe.  The hotel also helpfully has a number of bicycles available to borrow but beware, they are mostly enormous, so petite people might struggle – I certainly did!!

 

MalmoScandicStJorgenHotelRoom © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

ScanidStJorgenMalmoHotel © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoScandicBreakfast © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoBlueberrySoup © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

If you time your visit correctly, late August (16-23 August in 2013) is the time when Malmö hosts the Malmö Festival – a week long celebration of music and culture – and of course food. We had picked a good weekend to arrive as it was the last night of the Malmöfestivalen – an annual festival of music, art, cinema and culture that was started in 1985 and now attracts 1.4 visitors per year.  What I loved most about the festival is that it is a street festival – attendees are not sequestered in some muddy field outside town – all the action, food stalls and music stages can be found on Malmö Stortorget Posthusplatsen, Gustav Adolf Square and Raoul Wallenberg park in the heart of the city.  We really loved strolling around and soaking up the atmosphere, listening to some music (in a marquee draped with IKEA fabrics, of course!) and indulging in some snacks.  Malmö  is the most ethnically diverse city in Sweden, and nowhere is it more apparent than in the food at the festival.  After dumping our bags we strolled out onto Gustaf Adolf Square where the festival was in full swing, only to have our senses assaulted by an eye-popping range or street foods offer.  From every form of Turkish kebab, to the usual candyfloss and sweets, to Swedish herring, to Asian food, to curry, to a bunch of very jolly singing South American blokes selling barbecued goods… you name it, it was there. And what did we choose to eat out of all this bounty?  Well, fried food, of course!  We chose a Hungarian langos – a flat piece of fried pastry (kind of like a small fried pizza base) topped with sour cream, prawns, caviar and red onions.  Messy, unhealthy, but incredibly good! I suspect we would have had more, had there not been the small matter of a Swedish crayfish party later… We also spotted rather a lot of examples of, erm, yarnbombing – everything from ceremonial statues to traffic bollards to road signs covered in colourful knitting.

 

MalmoFestivalFoodMarket © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoBarista

 

 

 

MalmoCarousel

 

MalmoFestivalMarketDiptych © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoFestivalTurkish © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoKnitting

 

 

MalmoKnittedSunflower © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoFestivalMusicTent © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoLangos © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoFestival ConcertStage © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

So other than the festival, what is there to do in Malmö for a long weekend?  Well, there’s the charming Malmö farmers’ market on Drottingtorget on a Saturday morning, which is where Su-Lin and I went on foot while Nick and Denise got on their bicycles and headed down to the Kallbadhuset at Ribbersborgs beach.  This uniquely Swedish institution is like a lido, bath house and pier all rolled into one.  Situated in a picturesque wooden building on stilts at the end of a long pier off Ribbersborg beach, you will find separate swimming areas for men and women, as well as two female, two male, and one mixed sauna.  Skinny dipping is positively encouraged (!), and the bathhouse is open all year round.  What is most unusual is the fact that you don’t swim in a pool – you simply descend the steps into the waves and have your bracing dip in the Baltic sea! There is a café and a restaurant on site with views across to the impressive Øresund bridge which joins Malmö by road to Copenhagen in Denmark. And if you look back towards the shore, you also get a good view of the graceful Turning Torso, one of Malmö’s most iconic buildings by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and at 190m, the tallest building in Sweden.

 

Malmo farmers market title © J Horak-Druiff 2012

 

Malmo farmers market 1 © J Horak-Druiff 2012

 

MalmoSwimming1 © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoSwimming2 © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoLifebeltjpg © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoTorsoFromKalbadhus © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

One of my favourite buildings that’s well worth a visit is the Sankt Petri Kyrka (Church of St Peter) in the centre of the old town.  Built in 1319, the church is a beautiful example of early Baltic Gothic and the austere exterior hides a surprisingly light and airy interior, as well as an unexpectedly delicate and beautiful chapel.  The Tradesmen’s Chapel has been restored (like the rest of the church) but still features the intricate and rich jewel-coloured original artwork from the 1300s on the walls and vaulted ceilings.  For local history buffs, there are also a number of graves of important townspeople buried below the floor of the church.

 

MalmoChurch1

 

MalmoChurch2

 

MalmoChurchdetail

 

Grab a map and make time to walk or ride around the Gamla Staden, Malmö’s old town, exploring the various squares and their architecture.  Stortoget (built in 1536) is considered to be the city’s central square where you can find the statue of King Charles X (covered in knitted goodies when we saw it!) as well as the Rådhus, Malmö’s town hall.  Also look out for the fountain in front of the city hall which depicts various historic Malmö scenes, including what appears to be a Moorish chap and a two-faced monkey (of course!).  From the southwest corner of the square, a short walk connects you to neighbouring Lilla Torg (literlally “little square”) which is the centre of Malmö’s nightlife surrounded by restaurants and bars. If you fancy a little walk away from the old town, Slottsparken (Castle Park) is a 225-acre  green oasis which also houses the Malmöhus Castle, built in the 16th century and still surrounded by an impressive moat.  Today, however, it houses museums rather than royalty – the The Malmö Art Museum (Malmö Konstmuseum), Stadsmuseum (City Museum), the Museum of Natural History and the Science and Maritime House Museum are all housed there.  As our time was limited, we only visited the art museum which houses the largest collection of 20th Century Nordic art in Sweden, including some rather fabulous moulded wire pieces featuring human torsos – so graceful!  And if you like to find your art in more unexpected places, do as we did and take a sunset stroll along the canal on Norra Vallgatan. As we were admiring the goden reflections of the buildings in the still water, I was thrilled to spot a cat – but I soon realised that it was not a real cat but a bronze – one of two bronze cats respectively patrolling and gazing over the canal.  Public art at its most enchanting!

 

MalmoMap © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoCityDiptych © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoCityHall © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoFountain © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoLillTorget © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoRedBrick © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoCastle © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoMuseum © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoWireSculpture © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoSunsetBuildings2 © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoSunsetBuildings1 © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoCatReflection © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoCatJeanne © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoCatBronze © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

If you have a bit of time on your hands, you may also want to take advantage of the excellent Swedish rail network and do a day trip or two to the surrounding villages and towns.  Two options that we explored (and that I will blog about separately) were Ystad, a pretty coastal town and home of fictional detective Walllander ; and Lund, a historic university town, both within easy reach of Malmö. And of course, no holiday would be complete without food! On our first night we enjoyed a trditional Swedish crayfish party; and on our second night we visited Bastard.  One afternoon we also attended a private cooking class with Peter J. Skogström  at Mat & Vin in Slottsparken – the venue is mainly open for functions but you can book group or individual cooking classes there too.  By the last night I wanted something plain and traditionally Swedish, and my search had led me to Bullen, an old-school pub dining room serving home-style Swedish cooking (and you can dine under the watchful gaze of a portrait of what appears to be  Henry VIII on the one wall!).  Nick chose the veal meatballs with whiskey cream sauce, lingonberries and pickled cucumber served with mashed potatoes  (192 skr)  which was nicely presented and packed with complementary flavours and textures.  I chose the creamy fish soup with salmon and hand-peeled shrimp with a sourdough baguette (169 skr) which was thick, rich and sinfully delicious.

 

MalmoBullenMenu © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoBullenInterior © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoBullenMeatballs © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoBullenMeatballSides © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

MalmoBullenfishsoup © J Horak-Druiff 2013

 

 

Other posts in my Taste of Skåne series:

  • A Swedish crayfish party
  • Malmö farmers’ market
  • Bastard restaurant, Malmö

GETTING THERE

We flew direct on Ryanair from London Stansted to Sturup airport 33km southeast of the city and Easyjet also operates direct flights from there.   SAS operates up to eight nonstop flights to Stockholm Arlanda dfrom Malmö daily. There are regular trains between Malmö and Copenhagen Kastrup airport or  Copenhagen central station and trips take 20 and 35 minutes.

STAYING THERE

Scandic St Jörgen Hotel
Stora Nygatan 35
211 37
Malmö
SWEDEN

Tel: +46 40 693 46 00

E-mail: 

stjorgen@scandichotels.com

 

GETTING FED & WATERED

Bastard
Mäster Johansgatan 11,
Malmö
SWEDEN
Tel +46 40-12 13 18
E-mail: info@bastardrestaurant.se 

 

Mat & Vin Slottsparken
Kung Oscars väg 2
211 33
Malmö
SWEDEN
Tel: 040-46 76 92
E-mail: bokning@matovin.com

 

Bullen
S
torgatan 35
211 41
Malmö
SWEDEN
Tel:  +46 40-12 12 41

 

GOOD TO KNOW

For more information on visiting Malmö, visit the Malmö Tourism website, or see the Visit Sweden website for more information on the Skåne region of Sweden.

 

 

DISCLOSURE:  I travelled to Malmö  as a guest of Malmo Tourism and Visit Sweden, who paid for all transport, accommodation and meals except our dinner at Bullen which I paid for myself.  ANo further remuneration was received in exchange for this post and all opinions are my own.

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  1. Monica Dix says

    August 21, 2013 at 11:02 am

    Now Sweden (particularly Malmö) is on my bucket list!

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      August 30, 2013 at 4:56 pm

      Yes! It should be, Monica! 🙂 I’ve been to Sweden 3 times now and each time I have had such a ball. Even just the food is reason enough to visit!

      Reply
  2. Denise says

    August 21, 2013 at 6:13 pm

    Great write up Jeanne! Makes me want to go back 🙂

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      August 30, 2013 at 4:57 pm

      It makes me want to go back for more LANGOS!! 🙂

      Reply
  3. Rosa says

    August 21, 2013 at 6:49 pm

    Definitely a place I wouldn’t mind visiting! Gorgeous architecture and fabulous food.

    That kitty statue is so cute (you too by the way 😉 ). This cat really looks like our Kismet…

    Cheers,

    Rosa

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      August 30, 2013 at 4:57 pm

      Awww, glad you like the kitty bronzes! It was some of the cleverest and most engaging public art I have seen in a while 🙂

      Reply
  4. Krista says

    August 23, 2013 at 9:12 am

    Oh wow, Jeanne!! I love that tent – and all the colorful decorations – and the FOOD – and the water and the sunshine and, well, all of it. 🙂 And you’re super cute with that cat. 🙂

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      August 30, 2013 at 5:02 pm

      That IKEA fabric-draped tent with the recognisably IKEA light fittings was just the coolest! I loved those kitty bronzes so much…

      Reply
  5. Andrew says

    August 29, 2013 at 8:49 pm

    alright already! You’ve convinced me – I need to go!

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      August 30, 2013 at 5:03 pm

      Yes! Yes! You do! Even if only for the langos… 😉

      Reply
  6. Jamie says

    August 30, 2013 at 12:44 pm

    *sigh* I have wanted to visit Sweden for so long, especially since reading all of the Henning Mankell novels (many times)… which means that I am somewhat familiar with both Malmö and Ystad. I dream of going. You packed so much into such a short time and it all looks so utterly amazing! Fabulous!! And the food! *swoon* Yes…

    Reply
    • Jeanne says

      August 30, 2013 at 5:04 pm

      Oh Jamie, you should! I have not read the novels, but we were taken to Wallander’s fictional house in Ystad – hard to escape the legacy 😉 It certainly was a busy few days, but packed with such good stuff.

      Reply
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Jeanne | Stylish food & travel


Are you a cook... or a baker?
I fall firmly into

Are you a cook... or a baker? 
I fall firmly into the "cook" category. Baking is too precise, too fiddly - and best left to those with an affinity for it, I always say! But every now and then, only a cake will do. Say, for example... when you celebrate your blog's SIXTEENTH birthday!! 🎉🍾 Yes, last month Cooksister.com turned sweet sixteen, and to celebrate I baked this sticky spiced plum upside down cake. It's a very forgiving recipe and it's worth every single calorie 😁. Click on the link in my profile to see the recipe or save this post so you can find it later: https://www.cooksister.com/2020/06/sticky-spiced-plum-upside-down-cake.html

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappoint
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

Anybody else got Lockdown Itchy Feet Syndrome...?? If it isn't an official disorder,  it certainly should be!

I have always been a dreamer, a planner, an explorer. Few things excite me more than stepping onto the soil of a country I have not visited before. When I am going through tough personal times, my go-to self-help therapy has always been to arrange a trip - to throw off the metaphorical bow lines and sail away to a new adventure. 
But then... Corona 😞  I can honestly say that I am enjoying working from home; enjoying having the time to run every day; enjoying cooking proper meals; enjoying my own company; enjoying the lack of FOMO. But OH MAN, I miss travel. 
This image was taken 2 years ago in St George's, Grenada - my first visit to the Caribbean but  certainly not my last. This photo has me dreaming of the day I can throw off those bow lines and travel again... How are you dealing with the lack of travel during this time?

Am I the only one feeling faintly sad at all the S
Am I the only one feeling faintly sad at all the Spring bulbs that were planted last year that have been flowering in parks and public gardens with nobody (or fewer people, anyway...) around to admire them? Spare a thought for the gardeners at Holland's famous Keukenhof who planted SEVEN MILLION bulbs last winter in preparation for the garden's annual 2-month opening... but because of Covid-19 Keukenhof did not open at all in 2020. 
But the good news is that for the first time in its history, Keukenhof was virtually open this year, meaning you can enjoy the best of the Spring flowers virtually, from the comfort of your armchair.  Keukenhof posted an amazing series of videos to their YouTube channel featuring magnificent 360 degree tours of the 2020 flowering bulbs; a run-down of the best photo spots; talks by various Keukenhof gardeners; and even a visit from Spongebob Squarepants!  You can check out their YouTube channel here https://bit.ly/2WWkahW. Or you can visit my blog  https://bit.ly/2zMgrLL  to see more of my Keukenhof images like this one of a river of tulips from when I visited a few years ago.

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When people tell me they don't like Brussels spro
When  people tell me they don't like Brussels sprouts, my inner voice always cries out the same response: oh honey, you're just doing it wrong! Sesame ginger sprouts are nutty, zingy and delicious - the opposite of the overcooked grey stinky sprouts of your youth, and so easy to make! 🔖 Remember to save this post so you can make the recipe later! The recipe is also on my blog - click the live link in my profile. 
For 4 people you need:
500 g Brussels sprouts, trimmed, halved and cooked (I roast mine in a hot oven)
1 x 2cm piece of ginger cut into fine matchsticks
2 Tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
1 Tbsp canola oil
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
Salt & pepper 
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Did you know that 6 February is Waitangi Day, the
Did you know that 6 February is Waitangi Day, the national day of New Zealand? .

I am marking the occasion with this photo was taken just over 3 years ago on the shores of beautiful Lake Pukaki on the South Island, looking across at Mt Aoraki.  I loved my visit and planned the trip completely independently – here are some tips for anybody thinking of visiting the South Island. .
🔖Click “save” to bookmark these tips for later! ➡️ 1) Take more time than you think you need. In a week you will barely scratch the surface of the South Island - I would say 2 weeks is a comfortable amount of time. ➡️ 2) Don’t assume that summer means hot weather! Even in December (the height of summer) temperatures peak at about 21C in Christchurch. Pack layers. ➡️ 3) Do spend time in Queenstown. It is stunning and one of my favourite places I have ever visited – great for hiking in summer, skiing in winter, sailing on the lake, adventure sports and a base for many surrounding natural attractions. ➡️ 4) Take day trips from Queenstown to Milford Sound and the Franz Josef glacier (but be aware that the weather is often not great). ➡️ 5) Take a road trip! The roads are excellent and generally empty – and it means you get to pose in places like the shore of Lake Pukaki 😊 .
Have you visited New Zealand’s South Island?  Would you like to?  Let me know in the comments!

"Don't just stand there, let's get to it: strike a
"Don't just stand there, let's get to it: strike a pose there's nothing to it!" (Madonna)

Nicole Kidman's is both hands on hips. Meryl Streep's is only left hand on hip. Victoria Beckham's is right hip out, left foot forward (and no smile!). Mine started as a joke many years ago - the earliest evidence I have is from 2005 😎 Do YOU have a signature pose? Tell me in the comments or DM me a pic!

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Even if you are not a French speaker as such, you
Even if you are not a French speaker as such, you may be surprised by the number of French words you already know: rendezvous, entrepreneur, souvenir and ricochet need no introduction. All have been adopted into English wholesale, with their original French meaning and spelling. Perhaps they should apply for settled status post-Brexit... But sometimes a word’s literal translation in French bears no resemblance to what the word has come to mean, such as canape. Although we know the word as meaning a small piece of pastry or bread with a savoury topping served at drinks receptions, the literal translation is a decorative antique sofa. When a clever chef first came up with the idea, the topping was thought to sit on the bread or pastry like a person reclining on a sofa, and the snacks came to be known half-jokingly as canapes. Fact! 
I enjoyed these very elegant canapes (LOVED the lacy little potato lattices!) with Code Rouge sparkling wine before a jazz dinner at Gerard Bertrand’s flagship wine estate Chateau L’Hospitalet in the Languedoc.  The dinner was as  spectacular as the canapes and you can read all about it on my blog now – click the live link in my profile above.

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1.  The closest station is Liverpool Street which is only a 5 minute walk from the market.
2. It's open daily, with over a hundred stalls, but on Wednesday the focus is on fashion & on Thursday the focus is on antiques & vintage.
3. The busiest day is Sunday - get there early to beat the crowds!
4. Make sure you sample some of the excellent street food on offer - I love the 8-hour pulled pork bagels from Dirty Bagel, topped with cheese melted by blowtorch in front of your eyes; or the traditional raclette at Abondance.
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Thanks @meetakwolff for the 📸

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"You're off to Great Places! Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting so... get on your way!" (Dr Seuss)

How are you starting the new decade? Staring at the mountains ahead, worrying about how hard they will be to climb and whether your shoes will be comfortable and whether it is going to rain along the way? Or striding confidently towards the mountains ahead, looking forward to the fresh air filling your lungs and the sense of purpose as your legs carry you ever higher, and relishing the prospect of an amazing view from the top?

There is no finer metaphor for life than a walk in the mountains and I have already made my choice as to how I plan to tackle the mountains of 2020. What's your choice? 
Wishing you all a very happy new year and amazing views from the top of every personal and professional mountain that you climb!

This particular mountain is in the Austrian Alps where I hiked last summer. Thanks to @thepassionatecook for the 📸!


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Jeanne Horak is a freelance food and travel writer; recipe developer and photographer. South African by birth and Londoner by choice, Jeanne has been writing about food and travel on Cooksister since 2004. She is a popular speaker on food photography and writing has also contributed articles, recipes and photos to a number of online and print publications. Jeanne has also worked with a number of destination marketers to promote their city or region. Please get in touch to work with her Read More…

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This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary
Always Enabled

Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.

Non-necessary

Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.