Cooksister | Food, Travel, Photography

Food, photos & faraway places

  • HOME
  • ABOUT
    • About me
    • Contact me
    • Work with me
    • Legal
      • Copyright notice & Disclaimer
      • Disclosure
      • Cookies and Privacy Policy
    • Press and media
    • Cooksister FAQs
  • RECIPES
    • Recipe Index – by course
    • Baking (savoury)
    • Braai/Barbecue
    • Breakfast & brunch
    • Christmas
    • Dessert
    • Drinks
    • Eggs
    • Fish
    • Gluten-free
    • Leftovers
    • Pasta & rice
    • Poultry
    • Pulses
    • Salads
    • Soup
    • South African
    • Starters & light meals
    • Vegan
    • Vegetables
    • Vegetarian
  • RESTAURANTS
    • British Isles restaurants
    • Dubai restaurants
    • France restaurants
    • London restaurants
    • Montenegro restaurants
    • New York restaurants
    • Pop-ups and supperclubs
    • Serbia restaurants
    • Singapore restaurants
    • South Africa restaurants
    • Sweden restaurants
    • Switzerland restaurants
    • USA restaurants
  • TRAVEL
    • All my travel posts
      • Austria
      • Belgium
      • Canada
      • Dubai
      • Cruise ships
      • France
      • Germany
      • Greece
      • Grenada
      • Hong Kong
      • Hotel reviews
      • Italy
      • Israel
      • Jersey
      • Mexico
      • Netherlands
      • Norway
      • Portugal
      • Singapore
      • Ski & snow
      • South Africa
      • Spain
      • Sweden
      • Switzerland
      • UK
      • USA
      • Wales
  • PORTFOLIO
    • Freelance writing portfolio
    • Speaking and teaching
    • Photography portfolio
    • Buy my photos
You are here: Home / London Life / London walks: Along the Thames through Shadwell and Limehouse

London walks: Along the Thames through Shadwell and Limehouse

by Jeanne Horak on May 30, 2004 No Comments in London Life

Cooksister-tomato

One of my favourite things to do in London when the weather is good is to walk along the River Thames. Maybe this is because South Africa does not have many large rivers and certainly no cities built on rivers the way that European cities are. I love the towpath between Hammersmith and Putney, especially in spring when the trees are in bud. I love the South Bank from the Design Museum to the Festival Hall. I love the industrial landscape from Woolwich to Greenwich. Take me to the river and I am happy.

So last Sunday, because the weather was sunny and I wanted to take some photos, we went exploring the Thames Path between Limehouse and Tower Hill. Took the Docklands Light Rail (DLR) to Limehouse station – immediately as you come down off the platform you find the Docklands Garden Centre below the station. I’d always seen the sign from the train but had never stopped by – what a lovely place! The floor area of the nursery is not that big – in fact it sits largely on a pavement – and there seems to be no brick & mortar structure – they have simply built upwards using wood so the whole place has a delightfully organic feel to it. The shade plants are at the bottom where water from the top level can drip down onto them and upstairs are the trees, shrubs and garden furniture. Beautiful plants, a vast selection of terracotta and glazed pots of all shapes and sizes, loads of terracotta pot feet in all shapes and loads of soil & gravel. Some of the painted and glazed pots would make fabulous presents with herbs or flowers in them! Note to self – gift ideas for future reference!

So after Nick got me out of there without having bought anything (!) we walked to the Limehouse Basin (formerly the Regent’s Canal Dock). The dock was originally built n about 1820 as a barge basin which would link the Regent’s Canal (a branch of the Grand Union Canal) to the River Thames at Limehouse. The idea was to build the dock large enough to accommodate sea-going vessels so that cargo could be transferred from these vessels onto narrowboats which could then transport goods, particularly coal, the length of the Grand Union Canal. Unfortunately the advent of the railways in the 1850’s provided a cheaper means of transporting coal to the interior of England and the dock’s economic lifeblood diminished. The focus shifted onto transporting other goods, particularly timber. With the general decline in waterborne transport, the dock was eventually closed to commercial shipping in 1969, but remains open for leisure craft. Today the basin is managed by British Waterways, unlike most of the other docks which fall under the authority of the Port Of London Authority. In 1983 the London Docklands Development Corporation started an intensive redevelopment programme which involved building a number of residential blocks surrounding the basin. Today the basin is surrounded by extremely expensive and ultra-modern apartments and there are dozens of pleasure boats moored on the water – some yachts and some permanently moored longboats. It is a great area to live in if you work in the City or Canary Wharf – beautiful accommodation and 10 minutes by DLR to work!

We walked right around the dock, took a few pics and chose which apartment we will buy when we win the lottery. (As Andre P Brink said, “not a question of imagination but of faith”!!) Incidentally, if you are in the area and want a good pub on the river, the Barley Mow in Narrow street just off the basin is right on the water and has an outside terrace for summer days – we have spent many happy hours there! We then we made our way back to Limehouse DLR station, got back on the train and travelled one stop to Shadwell station, which is in Wapping. The area around the station is not very promising – it is full of soulless council estates and a population made up largely of struggling immigrant families. But this is an improvement – in the 18th and 19th centuries the area between the highway and the river (where we were walking) apparently became one of the most wretched slums in Victorian Britain. Its squalor was also remarked upon by Charles Dickens who described a Wapping workhouse in Oliver Twist. But if, like we did, you walk two blocks south and duck through a little churchyard , you emerge through a small archway onto the edge of the Shadwell Basin.

It is quite different to Limehouse in that it is not visible from the train – in fact if you are not specifically looking for it, you wouldn’t know it is there. I didn’t even know it existed! It is the same size as or bigger than the Limehouse Basin and the main difference is that it is only open to the river – it does not lead into a canal in the way that Limehouse does. I guess this explains why it is totally devoid of boats! Nothing, nada, zip. Not one. So there is just this big expanse of water & rather nice low-rise apartments all around it. Walked around the dock and then into the bowels of Wapping. It is a really fascinating part of London – sandwiched between the economically depressed area around Shadwell station and the economically over-endowed St Katherine’s Dock and very, very old. Wapping was a thriving part of the London docks for hundreds of years, although today there is not much remaining evidence. We walked along Wapping High Street which is still largely enclosed by Victorian warehouses, many directly on the river and some recently converted to expensive apartments. When the warehouses were in use, they would almost all have had metal walkways high above the streets, to allow for goods to be carried from one warehouse to another, but today only two such catwalks remain and we saw these on Wapping High Street. I love the feeling of the area – the catwalks give it something of the flavour of Shad Thames on the opposite bank (where more of these catwalks have been preserved) and despite the modernisation, you really get a feel for how old London is.

We passed quite a few pubs – the two that stick in my mind are the Town of Ramsgate and the Captain Kidd. The former is not on the river but is built on a site where there has been a public house since the 1500’s. It is reputedly the pub where Fletcher Christian and Captain Bligh dined together while planning their ill-fated voyage on the Bounty. The latter, however, is on the river and is named after the famous pirate captain Kidd. Kidd was hanged for his crimes in 1701 at Execution Dock in Wapping. (The gallows were moved from St Katharine’s Dock to Execution Dock on the site of the present day Wapping Tube station.) As with other pirates of the time, his body was left on the gallows until it had been covered by the tide three times! Something that you don’t fully appreciate about the Thames until you live in London is the extent of the river’s tidal fluctuation – the difference between high and low tide is in the region of 9 metres, so it is quite feasible that someone hanged at the water’s edge would be covered by the rising tide! After three tides, his body was covered in tar and hung in the streets as a warning to others – clearly deterrence was the primary aim of punishment in those days!! Incidentally, the last men to be hanged at Execution Dock were George Davis and William Watts, who were hanged for murder and mutiny on the High Seas on the 17th December in 1830. Anyway, back to the pub. There are tables both inside and outside and you are literally on top of the river so the view is great. It was not that warm by the time we got there but I certainly see us going back on a sunny day for a drink! Upstairs from the pub area there is also a restaurant area – the menu looked lovely and fairly reasonably priced – a bonus in the Docklands. And you certainly don’t get to have a beer on the site of a hangman’s gallows every day!

My one gripe about the area is that the Thames Path which, in theory, runs along the Thames for pedestrians, has to twist and turn behind buildings for much of this stretch of the river. I realise that the much of the reason for this is the Victorian warehouses that front directly on the water to that there is no space for a path, but in some cases apartment blocks have been built and they simply gate off access to the river to preserve their exclusive stretch of river front – this really riles me and is also a problem further east on the Isle of Dogs. It means that for stretches you are barely aware that the river is one building away from you. But it does mean that the river makes a grand entrance when you do see it.

Just before St Katherine Docks we came across the Alderman Stairs – a positively Dickensian narrow staircase from the road between two buildings right down to the river. The tide was about halfway in so the Thames was splashing energetically at our feet and you could look upstream and suddenly see Tower Bridge across the water – too marvellous! You could also see how many stairs are covered in algae and take a rough guess at how high the water is at high tide – it never ceases to amaze me! Took a couple of pictures and continued our walk. Ended up shortly afterwards at St Katherine Docks – once again, if you don’t know they are there, you would never know to go and look for them. They are right beside Tower Bridge but cut off from view by the large & rather unattractive Tower Thistle Hotel.

There has been a dock on this site for over a thousand years, but the present-day docks were built in the 1820’s and were hugely successful at the time. Sadly, much of the original development was destroyed during the Blitz in WWII (all of London’s docks suffered appalling damage). The docks continued to operate commercially until their closure in 1968 and subsequently they have been developed sensitively and now contain residential and retail property as well as a yacht basin. Nothing to leave you feeling deprived like walking around there – huge yachts, beautiful apartments, lovely views of the yacht basin, restaurants bedecked with pansies & petunias – just lovely. Made a note to go back to the prettiest pub, the Dickens Inn. By this time, though, our energy was flagging so we hopped back on the DLR at Tower Gateway and headed home after a great walk through London’s history.

More deliciousness for you!

  • Cooksister-tomatoFirst things first
  • Saturday Snapshots #140Saturday Snapshots #140
  • The secret life of pie – the February WTSIM roundupThe secret life of pie – the February WTSIM roundup
  • Tom’s KitchenTom’s Kitchen

Never miss a Cooksister post

If you enjoyed this post, enter your e-mail address here to receive a FREE e-mail update when a new post appears on Cooksister

I love comments almost as much as I love cheese - so if you can't leave me any cheese, please leave me a comment instead!

« The veal deal
Desperately seeking… boerewors »

Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Never miss a Cooksister post!

Get my latest recipes delivered by e-mail!

Search over 500 recipes

Recently on Cooksister

  • Perfect broccoli and Stilton soup [keto, low carb, GF]
  • Masalchi by Atul Kochhar – Indian street food in Wembley
  • Barbecued salmon with blood oranges and capers
  • Roasted Brussels sprouts with feta, pomegranate and pine nuts [GF, V]
  • Love Yourself healthy meal delivery [Review]
  • Antillean
  • Festive roast lamb with pomegranate glaze
  • Rustic blood orange and pistachio galettes

Archives by month

Archives by category

Popular posts

Peppermint Crisp fridge tart - a South African treat
Nigella's Bakewell slices & the Big Bakewell Taste-off
Oxtail and red wine potjie
Gem squash 101: how to find them, how to grow them, how to eat them!
Things to do in Kitzbühel if you don't ski
My big, fat South African potato bake

Featured on

Also available on

Do you enjoy free art installations? Then you need Do you enjoy free art installations? Then you need to get down to @canarywharflondon between now and Saturday 28 Jan to catch the free Winter Lights 2023 event, back for the seventh year.

My favourites include @lukejerramartist ‘s Floating Earth; Tom Lambert’s Out of the Dark; Fluorescent Firs; Toroid by This is Loop; and the surreal and mesmerising Anima by MEATS - a tunnel filled with hundreds of thin optical fibre lights that change colour and move in the breeze 😍 

Have you been to Winter Lights? What was your favourite?
“When we look down at the Earth from space, we s “When we look down at the Earth from space, we see this amazing, indescribably beautiful planet. It looks like a living, breathing organism. But it also, at the same time, looks extremely fragile.” - International Space Station astronaut Ron Garamond

To experience the “overview effect” (a phenomenon experienced by astronauts viewing the earth from space), head down to Canary Wharf in the London docklands this week where you can see @lukejerramartist ‘s beautiful Floating Earth installation as part of the Winter Lights event. 

This giant 10m diameter installation is created using high resolution NASA images to create a floating scale model of the Earth, lit from within so that it glows from its current home on the Middle Dock, surrounded by the headquarters of international banking and finance corporations.

The artist hopes that viewed in this context, the installation will make visitors and the bankers working in surrounding buildings question how their money in savings and pensions is invested, and whether investments can be greener.

Aside from being a thought provoking piece, it is also mesmerising and surreally beautiful, so make sure you visit the free Winter Lights event before ends on Saturday 28 Jan.
Happy lunar new year! [Invited] To celebrate the Happy lunar new year! 

[Invited] To celebrate the arrival of the Year of the Rabbit, why not head over to @mamachensdumplings currently doing a residence at the @thegantrylondon in #stratford where you can feast on prawn & chive dumplings; pork, Chinese cabbage and shiitake mushroom dumplings; pork & prawn wontons with Mama Chen’s chilli oil; vegetable dumplings; smacked cucumber salad; and spicy noodles coated in garlic and Szechuan pepper oil.

And afterwards, make sure you head up to the @unionsocialoc bar for a cocktail - I loved the Moreish Fashion with bourbon, PX sherry, chestnuts and mandarin orange bitters!
Got leftover Stilton (or any blue cheese) from Chr Got leftover Stilton (or any blue cheese) from Christmas? Turn it into this super simple and super indulgent broccoli and Stilton soup! So easy to make and soooo delicious to eat - and it is low carb and GF. What more could you want?! Click the link in my bio for the full recipe. What’s your favourite soup?
CELEBRATE. So the fireworks are over, the champag CELEBRATE.

So the fireworks are over, the champagne is finished and the leftovers are all eaten. We are one week into 2023 and I have had some time to think about what my intent is for the year. 

In 2022 my brother had a life saving kidney transplant. Since the operation, he has had a Peanuts cartoon as his WhatsApp profile pic, where Charlie Brown and Snoopy are sitting on a pier talking. Charlie says “Some day, we all die Snoopy.” And Snoopy replies: “Yes - but every other day, we will live.”

Waking up in the morning is a gift, every day, and it is so easy to forget this. The last few years have been difficult for so many people and the coming year promises its own challenges. But every day that we don’t die is a day to live, to celebrate life in some small way.

So my intention in 2023 is to celebrate. Celebrate our achievements however small. Celebrate our friends and family. Celebrate small things. Celebrate life.

Did you make any resolutions or goals for 2023? I would love to hear them in the comments! Wishing you all the very best for 2023 🥂
Happy new year, everyone! Here are some scenes fro Happy new year, everyone! Here are some scenes from last night with friends in Deptford. My deconstructed avocado ritz; @twinkleparkstephen ‘s bobitie; Giles’ Ottolenghi tomato salad; and Jean’s clementine trifle - and the London night sky ablaze with fireworks!  How did you spend your evening? 🥂🎇🎆
Merry Christmas to all those celebrating - I hope Merry Christmas to all those celebrating - I hope your day was merry and bright, filled with family, friends and love 🎄🥂. Mine was spent alone at home - my choice and the result of a combination of Covid (not mine!) and rail strikes 🤦‍♀️ but very relaxing and indulgent!
Looking for a stylish and easy Christmas starter y Looking for a stylish and easy Christmas starter you can make ahead? Look no further than my individual smoked salmon terrine! Hot smoked salmon, cream cheese and chives wrapped in cold smoked salmon in a ramekin. Still one of the most popular Christmas recipes in my blog, it looks cheffy but is soooo simple to make - and will save you time and effort on the day! Get the recipe by clicking on the link in my bio.

How is your Christmas meal prep going? Are you entertaining at home or going to friends or family? 🎄🥂🎄🥂🎄
Looking for a brilliant biryani near Marble Arch? Looking for a brilliant biryani near Marble Arch? I recently enjoyed a feast at Biryani Kebab Chai @bkc.restaurant on Edgeware Road, including wonderful sweet, spicy and crunchy papri chaat; smoky burrah lamb kebab; galouti lamb patties; juicy chaap chicken thigh kebab; spicy chapli chicken patties; and the surprising vegetarian dahi ke patties made of yoghurt! We also tried the chicken and soya biryanis, both with incredibly fluffy and delicately spiced rice. You can get their biryanis as a 1kg takeaway, served in a beautiful branded clay pot that serves 3-4 people, for about £30. Bargain! We also took home a sample of their desserts, including a fragrant and delicious kheer rice pudding. If you are in the Marble Arch area, get yourself to BKC!  #invited #bkcrestaurants
Load More... Follow me on Instagram

Follow Jeanne Horak-Druiff's board Recipes by Cooksister on Pinterest.

Cooksister

The South African Food and Wine Blog Directory

The South African Food and Wine Blog Directory

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter

Jeanne Horak is a freelance food and travel writer; recipe developer and photographer. South African by birth and Londoner by choice, Jeanne has been writing about food and travel on Cooksister since 2004. She is a popular speaker on food photography and writing has also contributed articles, recipes and photos to a number of online and print publications. Jeanne has also worked with a number of destination marketers to promote their city or region. Please get in touch to work with her Read More…

Latest Recipes

Bowls of broccoli and Stilton soup
Salmon with blood oranges dill and capers
Brussels sprouts with feta and pomegranate
Roast lamb with pomegranate glaze
Blood orange & pistachio galettes
Cauliflower topped steak with melted cheese
Plate of potted smoked salmon with slaw and a glass of champagne
bowls of pistachio pomegranate bircher muesli

SITEMAP

Home

Contact

About me

Recipe Index

Restaurant Index

Copyright & Disclaimer

Cookies & privacy policy




blog counter

© 2004 - 2023 · Jeanne Horak unless otherwise stated - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. You may not reproduce any text, excerpts or images without my prior permission. Site by RTW Labs

Copyright © 2023 · Cooksister on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

Cooksister cookie consent
We use cookies to ensure you receive the best experience on our site. If you continue to use this site, you are agreeing to our terms and conditions. Accept
Privacy & Cookies Policy

Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary
Always Enabled
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Non-necessary
Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.
SAVE & ACCEPT